Spot in Rome- Domus Aurea
The Domus Aurea is the Latin name for the ‘Golden House’ created by the Emperor Nero shortly after 64 CE. 64 CE is a significant date in Roman history because it marks the great fire of Rome, which, is also inextricably tied to the legacy of this Emperor. You may have heard the story that the Emperor Nero “fiddled while Rome burned”; this has been contested by historians, but it is still a powerful expression and used quite ubiquitously. It is true that the fire burned through about 70% of the city, clearing the area that Nero would soon use to create his Domus Aurea and pleasure gardens. The accessible part of this great house complex is now ‘underground’ after almost 2,000 years, yet located in the original spot, now across from the Coliseum on the slope of the Colle Oppio (Oppian hill) and within the park area, which is worth a stroll around either before or after your tour. Do keep in mind that when construction began on the Domus Aurea, the great Flavian Amphitheatre (official name of the Coliseum) was not yet constructed; it was commissioned between 70-72 AD, and inaugurated in 80 AD. The neighboring Coliseum is more popular (as you know) but I enthusiastically recommend the Domus Aurea. I have toured twice, and unlike the Coliseum, tickets can bought for certain time slots on Saturday and Sunday, and they are limited to a group of 25 people per guide. You will want to book quite far in advance to be safe. Here is the website to book your tickets:
You have to wear a hard hat to explore as the Domus Aurea is an active archeological site
They offer tours in English, and guides are knowledgeable and engaging; many of them have a background in archeology and some are even working on the ongoing excavations of the site which happen Monday to Friday. After doing the tour for the first time, my best friend Shelley and I were giddy. We both exclaimed that it was the BEST guided tour in Rome. The information shared is fascinating and will keep you engaged for the 1 hour 30 minute tour, I guarantee.
Some of the frescos representing grotesque designs; the central image is a famous scene from Greek Mythology featuring the hero Achilles. Read more here
For example, you will learn that the origin of the word ‘grotesque’ comes from the discovery of the Domus Aurea in the 15th century. The structure was already buried underground by this time someone discovered it during this time (also known as the Renaissance). Many of the famous artists from this epoch, lowered themselves down to admire the frescos and remains of Nero’s masterpiece. They thought that the house felt like a cave which is ‘grotto’ in Italian; hence the creation of the word ‘grotesque’ to describe the style of art found in this now cave-like complex.
They emulated this style and you will see 15th century ‘grotesque’ designs in the Vatican museums and great Renaissance villas, such as the Villa D’Este if you are able to visit Tivoli, one of the regional features for Lazio. I will not give away much more about the Domus Aurea; visit and be dazzled for yourselves. One last thing, there is an incredible Virtual Reality experience during the tour. VR headsets are available for everyone to access and immerse themselves in a reconstruction of what the rooms looked like in Nero’s time, the 1st century CE.