Spot in Rome- Piazza Della Bocca Della Verita

This is an underrated spot within the center of Rome, and the first prominent elements you will notice are two temples in a small park area that has become increasing manicured over the last 12 years. Many people drive past these temples as they are close to the Circo Massimo and the Lungotevere (the long road that runs from south to north Rome all along the side of the Tiber river). Thus if you are in a taxi moving from south to north near the city center, chances are, you will drive past this spot. Before the Piazza came to be known by its ‘current’ name, it was the Foro Boario (Forum Boarium) in ancient Rome. For more comprehensive information on this site, explore this page.

The Cloaca Maxima (ancient sewer of Rome) which unfortunately now has some graffiti on it

The Foro Boario was the cattle and meat market of ancient Rome, and it continued to function as a market space until the 1930’s, when there were ‘Fascist-era ‘cleanups’’ as Mauro Lucentini states in The Rome Guide. The Foro Boario was strategically placed by the Portus Tiberinus, or the first port of entry along the Tiber river and the proximity to the Cloaca Maxima (the great sewer) which allowed the formerly marshy area to remain functional. You can still see the Cloaca Maxima on the left bank of the Tiber, and I would recommend walking down to the water’s edge to do so.

Temple of Portunus

The Temple of Hercules Victor by night

This, along with the Piazza Della Bocca Della Verita, is completely underrated as a treasure of antiquity AND ‘early Rome’s greatest technological feat.’ A part of this historic sewer was used to drain the Roman Forum as early as the 5th century BCE. The two temples I mentioned are the Temple of Portunus and the Temple of Hercules Victor. The Temple of Portunus, or Temple of Fortuna Virilis (it has gone by both names), is linked to the Portus Tiberinus as it essentially overlooks where the former port would have been on the banks of the Tiber. Originally built in the 3rd or 4th century BCE, it is one of the best-preserved Roman temples. Portunus was the god of keys, doors and livestock; thus the port and foro connection are strengthened. The second temple is known as the Temple of Hercules Victor, and it is the earliest surviving marble building in Rome, dating from the later 2nd century BCE.

Another distinctive feature in the piazza is the church called Santa Maria in Cosmedin. In fact, this church houses the relic from which the piazza takes its name, the Bocca Della Verita, or Mouth of Truth. You might remember it from the 1953 film Roman Holiday, in which Gregory Peck famously startles Audrey Hepburn while he performs the ritual of placing his hand inside the mouth, as pictured in the clip above.

This relic, now housed by the church, is both famous and mysterious. It is often referred to as a “marble mask” but it is also speculated that it was used as a drain cover in the Temple of Hercules Victor. According to multiple sources, it “probably depicts the face of the sea titan god Oceanus”  but ultimately there is much speculation and not much confirmation from scholars. It is clear that the Hollywood film fame has bolstered the popularity of the mouth since the mid 20th century as there will most certainly be line of tourists assuring you that you have arrived at the right place. Although this landmark of the area is certainly not undiscovered, I fear many people overlook the true historical value of the surrounding landmarks, the two temples and sewer, to name a few. The church itself has ancient origins from the 6th century CE, and although, like all churches in Rome, it has been restored continually, this one is medieval in appearance, because it was restored to this medieval-looking state in the late 19th century. You will notice that the façade looks quite unique when compared to the more popular Baroque aesthetic covering the inside and outside of most churches in Rome. The bell tower is from the 13th century and can be admired from the various bridging running across the Tiber through the Trastevere area.

The Ponte Rotto from the river’s edge

You can have a great view from the Ponte Garibaldi, overlooking the Isola Tiberna as well. While in the area, do not miss the Ponte Rotto, a picturesque bridge fragment that was originally built in the early 2nd century BCE. You will notice that the river current is particularly strong, thus the bridge collapsed at least twice and had to be rebuilt. After being rebuilt in 1568, it collapsed 30 years later and was left in its ‘broken’ state. In my opinion, it embodies the concept of ‘beauty in ruin’ that I have referenced throughout this website.

Unlike some other spots, museums especially, all of these sites mentioned are free and can be observed and enjoyed at any time of day. The exception is, of course, the church; it is free, but open only from 9.30 AM- 6 PM. If you want to ‘try your hand’ be sure to observe the hours.  

View of the Piazza Della Bocca Della Verita from the Hotel 47

My dad likes to stay at the Hotel 47 in this piazza; it is not inexpensive, but the rooms are modern and chic, and the location is excellent. Even if you do not stay, there is a nice rooftop bar where you can have an aperitivo and gaze down on the sites I have described. The price of a spritz is above average (15 euro, I believe), but the snacks included are good and the view is even better.