Regional Feature-Tivoli
Tivoli lies to the Northeast of Rome, and you can reach it quite easily by taking a train from either of Rome’s central stations, Termini or Tiburtina. You will arrive in the city of ‘ville’ in less than 40 minutes. Thus, Tivoli makes an ideal day trip from Rome. Originally known by the name ‘Tibur’, our modern Tivoli is an ancient city, and the origins are said to reach back to 1215 BCE, hundreds of years before the founding of Rome in 753 BCE. Find out more about the origins here.
As briefly mentioned, Tivoli is home to three prominent ville (grand villas). I encourage you to experience all of them.
Experience all three of Tivoli’s famed ville. The most central is the Villa D’Este.
The view from Villa D’Este.
Built for Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este of Ferrara (1509-1572), this villa was granted UNESCO status as “one of the most remarkable and comprehensive illustrations of Renaissance culture at its most refined. Owing to its innovative design and the creativity and ingenuity of the architectural components in the gardens (fountains, ornamental basins, etc.), it is a true water garden and a unique example of an Italian 16th century garden,” according to the UNESCO website. When you visit, you can explore the great Renaissance rooms of the house and the unparalleled gardens that slope down a great hill.
The second villa is ancient. It is the Villa Adriano, or the Emperor Hardian’s villa. This villa was also granted UNESCO status for “exceptional architectural legacy of the great Roman Emperor Hadrian. Built as a retreat from Rome between 117 and 138 CE, the villa was designed as an ideal city and incorporates the architectural traditions of Ancient Greece, Rome and Egypt.” Find out more on the UNESCO site. Unfortunately, this villa is located about 5 KM outside of Tivoli. Thus, it is easier to access with a private car. You can take a public bus from near Villa D’Este, but departure times are not great, and it can be a little difficult to navigate the timetables. The last time I went, we used a private taxi service, and although a bit pricey, it was worth the convenience. You will find them waiting around the Piazza Garibaldi.
View over the Villa Gregoriana
The final villa, the Villa Gregoriana, is the most natural of the three. The ‘villa’ is really a network of “wooded parks, paths, waterfalls, grottoes and vegetation” according to the Department of Culture and Tourism website. The most striking features are the great waterfalls formed by the Aniene River. This villa was constructed in 1834 and there are “paths that lead to the caves of Neptune and the Sirens” which are worthy of exploring.
Sunday lunch at Ristorante Sibilla
Eat at Ristorante Sibilla. In fact, if you only plan on a day trip to Tivoli, but you would still like to indulge in a decadent meal, I would suggest visiting both Villa D’Este and Villa Adriana, and then booking an outdoor table at Ristorante Sibilla in which you have a gorgeous view of the waterfalls in the Villa Gregoriana. This way, you can experience all three. This restaurant was established in 1720 and has a formidable history of its own, with famous guests ranging from King Frederick William III of Prussia to Yoko Ono. The heavily seafood menu is fresh and beautifully prepared albeit a bit pricey. Our table outside was literally in the shadow of the round Temple of Vesta, from the early 1st century BCE. There is also the square Temple of Sibilia, from the 2nd century BCE, just nearby, hence the restaurant’s name.
I never want to live in Italy so long that I lose my complete and utter joy of eating an exquisite lunch in the shadow of a temple built over 2,000 years ago. Visit the official website to learn more about the restaurant and book a table.
Walk around the city center in addition to visiting the three villas. If you take the 15-minute walk from the train station to Villa D’Este, you will see the Rocca Pia, an impressive 15th century fortress. Stop into the Romanesque style Cathedral of Tivoli, also called the Duomo of San Lorenzo Martire. Take a seat in the Piazza Garibaldi when you need a break.