Regional Feature- Sacro Bosco/Parco Dei Mostri (Bomarzo)
This ‘spot’ is not the easiest to reach without a mode of private transportation, but there are options. First, if you have a car, the drive is about 1 hour and 15 minutes from Rome, but you can also take the train from Roma Termini to the Attigliano-Bomarzo station and then a taxi which is estimated to be between 14-20 euros. (It seems like there are unofficial taxis who make ‘runs’ from the station to the park, so I would negotiate the price before starting the journey and do not pay over 20 euro.) There is also a bus from Viterbo which takes about 25 minutes. Viterbo is another compelling city in Lazio, worthy of a day trip, but it did not quite make my top 10 list. Still, you could combine a trip to Viterbo with the Parco Dei Mostri, if it suits your needs. Once you do arrive, be prepared for a surreal experience. In fact, the great Surrealist Salvador Dali was so inspired by the park that he shot a film here.
Read about the history to enhance your experience before it comes to life. Knowing the unique history of this place enhances the strange experience in my opinion. Here are the essentials: The ‘park’ ( so-called the Sacro Bosco meaning ‘sacred grove’) was commissioned by Pier Francesco Orsini, who is also known as Vicino. He was a wealthy condottiero (contractor) by profession, and he now is remembered as a great patron of the arts. The park was commissioned in the mid 16th century (some sources claim 1552, specifically) by Orsini who hired the acclaimed architect Pirro Ligorio to carry out his ‘monstrous’ plans. His impetus for creation can be considered Romantic, in that, supposedly, Orsini created the Parco Dei Mostri in a state of grief after the passing of his dear wife, Giulia Farnese. (This family name might seem familiar; the Farnese family was very powerful and another Giulia Farnese, her maternal grandmother, was the mistress of the scandal ridden Pope Alexander VI, of the Borgia fame.) The park features massive sculptures which were created in the Mannerist (late Renaissance) style. Mannerism is known for exaggerating and distorting the perfect harmony of classical Renaissance forms. ‘Unnatural’ and ‘grotesque’ are appropriate adjectives to describe the Mannerist style. One of the first and best examples in painting is Michelangelo’s Last Judgement fresco in the Sistine Chapel. Not to move too far away from the park at hand, but if you observe these forms, you will see there are massive hulking nudes; differently proportioned from the earlier classical Renaissance figures pictured on Michelangelo’s ceiling fresco with the scenes from the book of Genesis.
Indeed, Orsini also broke with the tradition of Renaissance gardens, connected to the classical ideals of order and beauty, when he commissioned this mysterious place. You will not see trimmed hedges with perfectly geometrical designs; thus, as mentioned, the park at Bomarzo moves fully into a more Mannerist style.
Hercules fighting with the monster Cacus
Back to the park, specifically. One of the first large Mannerist sculptures you will observe as you descend into Orsini’s uncanny world is a great Greek god Hercules fighting with the monster Cacus, “who is shown here screaming and upside down” , according to Manuel Cohen’s website. The sculpture has an additional meaning, however, as Art Historian Antonio Rocco claims in this video, the face of Hercules is actually a portrait of Orsini himself. In this interpretation his unfortunate opponent is Lichas, (and you can read more about the story here.)
In addition to other recognizable figures from classical mythology, Proteus, Aphrodite, Cerberus, there are other natural and mythical animals coexisting in this 16th century surreal context. There are turtles, bears and whales with nymphs and dragons to name a few.
Mythical surprises at every turn in the Parco
Sculpture of Proteus Glaucus, very near the entrance to the Parco Dei Mostri
Hit the highlights of the park. I do recommend wandering and rather spontaneously taking in the peculiar sites as you encounter them. I think what makes the experience truly ‘surreal’ is to be constantly reminding yourself that this was created in the 16th century, over 400 years ago. You will be given a general map of the park with your admission. Observe the many mythical, shocking sculptures as you meander through, but be sure to hit these highlights. The first important sculpture you will see is the “huge sculpture of Proteus Glaucus.” Find out more here.
the ‘Casa Pendente’ or leaning house
Don’t miss the ‘Casa Pendente’ or leaning house. After using mostly the sense of sight to experience the wonders of the bosco, your sensory perception will be further distorted by stepping inside this ‘casina’.
Finally, often considered the ‘pièce de résistance’ is the menacing looking Orcus with a wide-open mouth, featured in the cover photo for this post. You will find cryptic inscriptions throughout the park, but this one is the most famous and photographed.
Ogni pensiero vola (All thoughts fly) is carved in red letters on the upper lip (and entrance way). You can enter the ‘mouth’ and the space becomes an echo chamber, into which, indeed, all thoughts fly. The website Slow Italy aptly points out that because there is a dining table inside, “one can both eat inside and be eaten by it.”
A drive through the town of Bomarzo, on the way to the Parco Dei Mostri
Drive or walk through the actual town of Bomarzo; it has an eerie feel. A few of the regional features I recommend in Lazio have this medieval village meets ghost town feel, namely, Calcata and Civita di Bagnoregio. Bomarzo feels this way (and is even less touristic than the aforementioned two) but it is still fascinating to observe from the outside and experience from the inside. When I first visited in 2018, I noted that there were not many restaurants to choose from in Bomarzo; I suggested to eat at Il Quadrifoglio. The Google reviews are still solid (over 4 stars) for a no frills and casereccio (homemade) dining experience featuring typical foods from the region, mushrooms and truffles with ‘arrosti’ (roasted meats). This restaurant is located in the ‘new’ part of the town.
UPDATE 2024:
Since 2018, they have updated and added some facilities at the Sarco Bosco. There is now a structure through which you enter equip with a bar area and more proper ‘gift shop’. There is also a full restaurant on site. However, I had noted that the entrance ‘costs 11 euros for adults over 13’. In 2024, the entrance costs 13 euro; that said, you can now buy the tickets online before arriving.
The new play area in the Parco Dei Mostri
The view from L’etrusca Bistrot in the historical center of Bomarzo
If you decide to visit the town of Bomarzo before or after the park, there is now a restaurant in the historical center called L’etrusca Bistrot. The reviews are stellar and the views are too!
