Spots in Varenna
Boat tour views on Lake Como
As mentioned in the Introduction to Varenna, I recommend booking a boat out on the lake. If you want to spend a little more, you can book a private tour. I did this with my parents, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. We spent a few hours in Varenna’s more expensive and recognizable neighbor is Bellagio (not to be confused with the Las Vegas resort that capitalized on the name). As Lake Como forms an upside-down Y, Bellagio is located on a promontory between the two arms extending down south. The town center has narrow streets and alleyways with lake views emerging from certain angles. Shops are expensive, but fun to explore. There are also two ville, namely, Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi, which both have beautiful gardens to explore. You can find out more here.
Francesco Hayez
L’ultimo bacio dato a Giulietta da Romeo, 1823
olio su tela, 291×201,8 cm. Public Domain. https://www.villacarlotta.it/en/the-museum/chamber-of-hayez/the-kiss/
Another villa on the opposite side of the lake that is a popular boat tour stop (and for good reason) is the Villa Carlotta. Built in 1690, this villa is famous for collection of 19th century artwork, in addition to the aesthetics on the exterior and gardens brimming with azaleas and rhododendrons. The most iconic painting in the collection is probably The Last Kiss of Romeo and Juliet by Francesco Hayez from 1823.
The Villa del Balbianello on Lake Como
Another popular villa to pass by or visit (we just cruised by this one to admire the outside) is Villa del Balbianello. Increased attention was lavished upon this villa, after it was used in a crucial scene in Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones. It was also a filming location for A Month by the Lake and Casino Royale according to the Lake Como Travel website.
Last but not least, and further south on the western ‘arm’ of the lake reaching closer to the actual town called Como, you can pass by the Villa Oleandra. It has existed in some form since the 18th century, but was famously purchased by American actor George Clooney in 2002 for the price of about 10 million dollars, according to the website linked above.
Now, back in Varenna, there are a few spots to explore, in addition to relaxing and taking in the lake views. I would advise you not to miss these two!
Castello di Vezio
Stone path up to or down from the Castello di Vezio
I would recommend a hike up to the Castello di Vezio from the town center. The hike is not particularly demanding, and the views are spectacular on the way. In fact, there are two paths you can take to reach the hilltop castle. According to Lonely Planet, one path is “a steep cobblestone path (about a half-hour hike) from Olivedo (the northern end of Varenna)” and the other is “the Sentiero Scabium, reached by taking the uphill ramp just opposite the Villa Monastero”. I would recommend taking the Sentiero Scabium on the way up; it takes a bit longer (about 40 minutes), but it is more scenic. You can take the steeper cobblestone path on the way down to experience both ways. Like many castles in Italy, the origins are not crystal clear, although it was built in medieval times (late 11th-13th century in this case) to be part of a chain of watchtowers.
A view back over part of Varenna
You can visit the castle, and even catch a falconry show, if you are interested. Wander into the suggestive streets Vezio, thought to be Etruscan in origin, and find Ceramiche Di Vezio. Italian artist Denise Parmigiani has a gallery and shop in which she sells pottery made with the Japanese technique called Raku. I bought a lovely, unique turquoise and silver bowl that I still proudly display. My mom and I always joke that this trip taught us always to take enough (more than enough!) money whenever you ‘hike’ in Italy. We brought only enough cash for entrance to the castle, and did not expect to find such a charming souvenir shop. We had to choose which to spend money on! In this instance, we chose the art over the experience of the castle tour, opting to observe it from the outside and take the handcrafted bowls home. Learn from our mistake and ensure that you do not have to choose!
A view down the coastline with cypress trees in view
Villa Cipressi
Views from inside Villa Cipressi
The villa itself is now a four star hotel that you can stay in, although it has passed through many aristocratic owners over the last four centuries at least. The villa has also hosted many famous guests including Emperor Ferdinand I of Austria and his family. in 1838. In more recent years, it has become a popular spot for weddings and other events because of the gorgeous views over Lake Como and the botanical gardens on the property. If you are not a hotel guest, entrance to the Botanical Gardens costs 8 euro for adults.
The price is worth it for a glimpse of the so-called ‘Heaven’s Gate’ found within the gardens. The beautiful wrought iron gates suspended over vibrant lake waters are depicted in my cover photo. As you can see, the artist has signed the photograph. My parents purchased this print on our trip and have it framed in their bedroom. Thus, “no copyright infringement is intended” as it is a photograph of the work they purchased. Still, here is a link to a virtual gallery selling the piece. Find the gate yourself as it is truly a magical gateway in a hidden corner of Varenna.