Regional Feature of Milano

Efficiency, industry, designer fashion are all there, but like in all great cities there is also great diversity. Diversity of music and art with an excellent underground and counterculture scene for both. Vice media company, for example, has its only Italian office in Milan. As previously alluded to, the food scene is also diverse. After the food themed expo in 2015, the spotlight has been left on Milan’s food. Interestingly, one of my best friends recently visited and she sent a picture of a sushi burrito at Fusho to our Whatsapp group chat. You can find abundant choice for any type cuisine you are craving, spanning price ranges. Explore some more trendy and eclectic culinary options here.

The Sforza Castle, another important landmark in the city, tied to the powerful Sforza family. Read more here.

Thus, Milan makes for an excellent base to explore the region of Lombardia, and you should take some time to experience the city itself. Of course, the second largest Italian city (after Rome) has abundant opportunity for exploration. I recently revisited the city as I had visited a few times, but felt like I had not done it justice. This time I did. Thus, below I offer what I explored in a ‘48 hour’ window after some pointed research towards places of particular cultural interest. For me, this ranged from Da Vinci’s fading frescos to natural wine in the Navigli district, design by my fellow Texan Wes Anderson and the tragic inspiration for the oft considered iconoclastic Italian writer Dario Fo. I wedged some requisite sites like the duomo in my itinerary and had dinner with an old friend who has been living in Milano for quite a few years now.

A shot of the Navigli, specifically, the Naviglio Grande (grand canal — A shot of the Navigli, specifically, the *Naviglio Grande (*grand canal

Explore the Navigli district. This area is defined by the iconic but also functional canals that run through it. The navigli (literally, ‘canals’) system was started in Lombardia the 12th century, but they reached Milan in 1258, and not long after, they were used to transport materials for the construction of the great Duomo, about a century later. Now, the most popular activity in the area (also called Darsena which refers to the docklands) is to have an aperitivo outside at one of the many establishments lining the Naviglio Grande (grand canal). I also recommend spending some time strolling and crossing bridges from one side to the other.

When I visited I headed down the canal, away from the Darsena, to a natural wine bar called Vinoir. It was actually the first natural wine bar in Milan, and I found the owner to be gracious and welcoming, especially as I was traveling alone and came in for lunch just before closing time. At first he seemed a bit annoyed, but when I expressed particular interest in natural wine, he opened up and met me with incredible hospitality. They have a small menu, but items are are freshly prepared every day. I had a delicious fresh fish carpaccio, paired with a nice pet nat to start.

The Duomi di Milano bathed in a golden light on a lovely early December day

Visit the Duomo, especially if it is your first time in Milano. The Duomo is considered the 5th largest church in the world. I took this trivia from the Walks of Italy site, and you can find out more here. Aesthetically, I must say, if asked to picture a ‘Gothic cathedral’ this Duomo in Milan would come to mind. The highly ornate, thin spires, gargoyles and spires are captivating. Historically, the structure was built over 5 centuries, started in 1386 and not finished until 1965. There is much more to say, but I encourage you to visit for yourself and book a tour guide or at least an audioguide.

The Duomo is located very near the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II . It is famous for being the oldest active ‘shopping mall’ in Italy as it was built between 1865-1877. The double arcade design is impressive, and this landmark is worth at least a walk through.

Personally, I would walk through the galleria and seek out Piazza Fontana, part of a literary connection also very nearby. Before the literature, however, there was the tragic bombing on December 12th, 1969. Specifically, a bomb was planted in the the National Agricultural Bank in the piazza; 17 people were killed and 88 wounded. Initially, the bombing was ascribed to anarchists, and this is where Dario Fo comes in. Giuseppe Pinelli, a known anarchist, was accused of planting the bomb, taken into police custody and questioned, but 4 days after being taken in, he ‘fell’ from the 4th story window of the police station.

Piazza Fontana with the National Agricultural Bank in the background, behind the fountain

Dario Fo wrote a political play entitled The Accidental Death of an Anarchist. I teach the play to IB students at my international school; it is a biting satire that explores the tense context of Italy in the 1970s-1980s, also known as the anni di piombo (years of lead). Piazza Fontana is a key location in these dark (but recent) decades of Italian history.

Moving back to art…

A view of the limited number of people allowed inside the temperature controlled room with Da Vinci’s Last Supper — A view of the limited number of people allowed inside the temperature controlled room with Da Vinci’s *Last Supper*

Book a time to observe Leonardo Da Vinci’s The Last Supper. Like the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova, only a limited number of visitors are allowed to see this significant fresco at one time. (25 people every 15 minutes, to be exact.) Maybe I have art history FOMO, but the limited visitation schedule made me obsessive about seeing these works of art. The reason for the limitations are because Leonardo Da Vinci used an “experimental technique using tempera or oil paint on two layers of dry preparatory ground” instead of the more durable fresco technique, according to Encyclopedia Brittanica. As a ‘notorious perfectionist’ Da Vinci took three years, from 1495-1498 to finish the masterpiece. The painting remains fragile today despite intensive restoration work. Hence, my advice to see it while you can. You can book tickets here, although these independent tickets sell out months ahead. I had to pay more and book a private tour (through the companies that buy up all the independent tickets, ha). The tour guide I had was excellent, however, and I just booked one of these generic tours linked above.

There is so much to discover in terms of the history and iconography of this painting. A tour will be well worth your time and money. This painting was popularized, of course, after the 2003 release of Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code with a theory about the relationship between Jesus and the supposed Mary Magdalene (who is hypothesized to be in the depiction instead of the disciple John). If you are a fan, this is another reason to see the original work while you still can!

Update 2023: Since I have visited the (formerly known as) Taverna Moriggi, it has transformed into DaDa in Taverna. It is the same space ( a palazzo from the 14th century) but clearly revitalized into a fresh, quirky, contemporary space. Indeed, this seems much more ‘Milano’, right? Regardless, I can’t wait to return and try the ‘Re-baptized’ version of this restaurant.

Eat at Dada in Taverna (Taverna Moriggi). My friend, Mary Kate, who lives in Milano suggested we meet here for a good representation of traditional Milanese cuisine in a particularly refined location. In fact, this restaurant is located in the 14th century Palazzo Dei Morigi, and it was particularly cozy and festive in the first week of December, anticipating the Christmas holidays. Here, I indulged in the most traditional Ris Giald (Risotto alla Milanese) with a reduction of veal and marrow. It was delicious. From browsing the new website it seems like dishes are more twists on traditional classics. (If there is Risotto alla Milanese, it will be reinterpreted!) Even the dish ware looks fresh and postmodern. The new cocktail menu looks quite dynamite to boot. I will have to get a closer look to see if there are any Duchamp style ‘fountains’ strewn around….

The elegant entrance to the first Italian Starbucks in the Palazzo delle Poste building in Piazza Cordusio

The inside of the Starbucks Roastery in Milano

Caffeinate at two important yet antithetical bars, namely, Starbucks and Bar Luce. I have a strange but strong affinity for Starbucks. Whenever I am back in the United States, I frequently visit Starbucks. Many true coffee lovers will complain about ‘burnt beans’ and the inferior quality in such a globally popular establishment. I don’t know, Starbucks offers me a taste of home, even while abroad. That said, I was not overly enthusiastic about the first Starbucks finally infiltrating the Italian peninsula. For years and years, Starbucks continued to pop up in every surrounding European country, but there was no penetrating Italy country lines. Everything changed with the long rumored and awaited (by some) opening of this Starbucks Reserve Roastery in 2018. Again, I cannot say I was happy, as I love Starbucks but never wanted it in my adopted country, only when I leave. Alas, it is here, and I didn’t want to miss out on the experience. Read more about the Italian market and the coffee giant’s plan here.

You can reach this Starbucks in 5 minutes from the Duomo; thus, it is particularly centrally located. The building, former Palazzo delle Poste in Piazza Cordusio, was built between 1899-1901, and it also once housed the Italian Stock Exchange. Thus, the historical space itself is vast, impressive, and worth a gander.

The second bar is not so centrally located, but if you are a Wes Anderson fan like I am, it is worth the trek out to the Fondazione Prada for the experience. In 2015, Anderson was asked to design this bar, and he described his concept in this way: “the approach I used to design this bar is exactly the opposite I usually use for the set designs of my movies. I tried to make it a bar you’d like to go to five times a week. When I was really young I wanted to be an architect, and this chance I’ve been given to pretend to be a real one is a childhood fantasy come true!”.

He also said Bar Luce should be “a space for real life with numerous good spots for eating, drinking, talking, reading, etc. While I do think it would make a pretty good movie set, I think it would be an even better place to write a movie. I tried to make it a bar I would want to spend my own non-fictional afternoons in.” Prices are what you might expect at a ‘Prada’ cafe, elevated, but not intensely to be fair. Read even more here.

Spots in Varenna