Restaurant in Rome- Z’Umberto
Trilussa, the poet
General Introduction Piazza Trilussa
I have been frequenting this restaurant for even longer than Roma Sparita, at least 10 years. Within this time, I have witnessed servers come and go, and one of my favorite waiters advance to a managerial role. These generational changes in management of Trasteverine institutions make me feel a bit old. Without lamenting the passage of time too much, I can say the quality of food at Z’umberto is definitively unchanged. You can reach this restaurant from the Campo Dei Fiori area via a beautiful walk across the Ponte Sisto; midway across the bridge is a great place for a photo-op.
View from Ponte Sisto at Sunset
At any time of day, you can see the cupola of San Pietro peeking over the trees, and at night, the streetlights reflect along the river creating an image reminiscent of a Van Gogh painting. Once you cross the Lungotevere you have technically entered the Trastevere neighborhood. You will run into the Piazza Trilussa.
The piazza was named for a 19th century Roman poet, and there is a statue in his honor to the right of the square (if you are facing it). This piazza is unique in that it has a large set of stairs on the far end and wide-open space in the center. Take a seat for a few minutes. When you are ready, continue your ramble around the right side of the piazza down the side street towards the heart of Trastevere. Soon you will come upon Z’umberto. The name of the restaurant is in the Roman dialect for Zio Umberto (or Uncle Umberto). ‘Zio’ is used rather generously in Rome to refer to friends or acquaintances.
Restaurant Specifics
Address- Piazza San Giovanni Della Malva, 14/b, Trastevere
Phone- +39 06 581 6646
Hours- Open everyday for lunch and dinner except Monday
Price- Middle Range
Reservations-By phone
The front and outside seating area of Z’umberto
The restaurant takes a long and narrow shape with much of the seating outside. A seat outside for a lazy Sunday lunch in beautiful weather is a treat, but seating inside has its charms as well. The tables are covered with a yellow tinted piece of butcher paper and the service is brusque but not rude. You need to go into the experience with this expectation, waiters flying around and people waiting impatiently to be seated in the vicinity. (You will not be one of them because you reserved ahead of time!) This is a place to feast on Roman classics. Go for the house wine, a half or full liter, red or white. The Amatriciana and Carbonara are both delectable; I always deliberate about which one I want, as both are top-notch and consistently good here. You can tell by the colors. The ‘matriciana sauce is thick and richly red and the Carbonara a vivid yellow hue coating the pasta. Bucatini is traditional for the amatriciana and spaghetti for the carbonara, but if you are like me and prefer ‘short’ pasta, you can request rigatoni or mezze maniche (two of my favorites).
Recommended Dishes
Antipasto- Fiori di Zucca or a misto di salumi e formaggi (for a group)
Primo-Amatriciana or Carbonara (save the Cacio e Pepe for Roma Sparita or Tanto pe Magna)
Seasonal soup- with porcini mushrooms and chestnuts, if you need a pasta break and happen to visit in the autumn.
Secondo-Polpette al sugo or coda alla vacinara
Dolci- Torta di Ricotta (to my tastes because it is not overly sweet)
In good company inside at Z’Umberto
If you are seated inside, ask for the baskets of sweets to be lowered from the ceiling. Look up and you will see them on a pulley system. They should offer you amari or limoncello to accompany the cookies.