Restaurant in Rome- Tanto Pe' Magnà
General Introduction to Garbatella
Sight on a stroll through Garbatella
The home of this restaurant is in the neighborhood is Garbatella, and although it does not contain any of the most popular tourist attractions, it is well worth a visit. I have alluded to the ‘beaten track’ and ‘off the beaten track’ spots, and Garbatella exemplifies the ‘off’ camp. I recommend a rambling amble around the neighborhood after a delightful and filling meal at Tanto Pe' Magnà. I believe your ‘giro’ (or walk) around the neighborhood will be more enjoyable with some background about why Garbatella is an interesting and picturesque neighborhood to explore. When you are in the neighborhood you will understand the sense of isolation that was intentional on part of the architects who created it. It feels like a city within a city, a blissful sense of seclusion pervades. Construction on the neighborhood of Garbatella began in the year 1920 (read more here ) Architecturally, the original idea was to emulate the ‘garden city’ in which there is a common green area that residents can share and gather in. In the case of Garbatella, the development was divided into lotti, or groups of buildings surrounding the common ‘yard’ or green area as described earlier. As Benito Mussolini became Prime Minister of Italy in 1922, he also features in the creation story of Garbatella. As mentioned, the project was started in 1920 when Vittorio Emanuele III was king. It remained a project for affordable housing under Mussolini and also accommodated some people displaced by his destruction of houses in the historic center (but that is a rabbit hole I will not venture down at this time). Attention to architectural detail dressed and blessed Garbatella with triumphant staircases, undulating planes and unique geometrical shapes found on the small residential buildings, all in the striking reds, oranges, yellows and greens that one expects of Roman residential architecture. You will find the colors around the city of course, but in Garbatella, the come together in a symphony, ready to be photographed at every angle. The architects used the technique of barocchetto in which they drew inspiration from the Baroque, Renaissance, and Medieval styles to name a few, resulting in a truly eclectic aesthetic, with orate and varied details to observe as you take a pleasant stroll.
Look down the winding river and to the right of the frame, and you will be able to discern the Gasometro amidst the more conventional sights of Rome
Another feature of Garbatella and a landmark of ‘Roma sud’ (South Rome) is the Gasometro. You may have noticed the cylindrical structure while gazing towards the south. It looms over the neighborhood of Garbatella, among others and has become a modern and industrial landmark, adding complexity to the Roman landscape. Built in 1937, the structure once held gas (as you might have guessed from the name). It has been defunct since the 1960s. From my apartment window in the northern neighborhood of Flaminio, however, I could see the sinuous path of the marble-lined Tevere, as Byron wrote the river flows ‘through a marble wilderness’. I could see the top of the Vittorino monument with two bronze quadrigas on the top of the massive white structure, but further down yet was the gasometro, strangely asserting its rightful place amongst centuries of artificial and natural sights.
There is also a great white bridge, by name it is the Ponte Settimia Spizzichino that leads to and from the neighborhood of Garbatella. I recently learned that the strikingly white bridge was named after the only woman to survive after being deported from the former ghetto di Roma and transferred to Auschwitz in 1943. Settimia Spizzichino lived until the year 2000 and shared her story until the year of her death. The bridge was completed in 2012, and many believe it resembles a strand of DNA. Comparisons have also been drawn with the geometric lines of the gasometro as detailed above. Regardless, the legacy of the holocaust survivor, Settimia Spizzichino is memorialized by this structure and should be known by all who gaze on it and cross over it.
Restaurant Specifics
Address- Via Giustino de Jacobis 9/15, Garbatella
Phone- +39 06 5160 7422
Website- No official website; here is the Tripadvisor page
Hours- Open every day for lunch and dinner
Price- Low-Middle price range
Reservations- By phone
Now the restaurant, Tanto Pe' Magnà. It was recommended to me by my friend Emma who lived in the Garbatella area for many years. Now, it might feel like a great journey to reach the restaurant, especially if you are coming from the north of Rome. The waitstaff will not flatter you in any respect, so don’t expect a particularly warm welcome. Decoration in the restaurant is sparse, but if you want authentic, you will get authentic and paramount quality. The name of the restaurant is ironically presented in the Roman dialect. There is a good natured (usually good natured) rivalry between the north and south districts of Rome, with comedians capitalizing on the subject and creating north vs south videos. This dichotomy almost works as a microcosm for the larger cultural ‘conflict’ between the north and the south. Regarding the north and south distinction in Rome, this article does a pretty good job of explaining.
Happy consumers and Cacio e Pepe in the front
Now, the name ‘Tanto Pe' Magnà’, as I stated, is in the Roman dialect and thus fits in perfectly with the ‘Roma Sud’ characterization. In fact, I believe the name is self-aware in the irony and playing with these cultural associations of south Rome.
In proper Italian the name would read: Tanto per Mangiare. There is a popular idiomatic expression, however, that is ‘tanto pe’ which translates to ‘just to’. In fact, a famous Roman song popularized by Nino Manfredi in the early 1970s is called ‘Tanto Pe' Cantà’ (Just to Sing). The restaurant name is assuredly a self-conscious and rather humorous nod to this song. Instead of ‘Just to Sing’ come to this excellent trattoria ‘Just to Eat’ excellent food with no frills. Furthermore, the Roman dialect is famous for ‘cutting’ words down; thus, per (literary ‘for’ or ‘to’ in the case of the expression) becomes pe’ and the infinitive form mangiare (literary ‘to eat’) becomes ‘Magnà’. You will hear this abbreviation all over Rome; people exclaiming ‘annamo a magna’’ (Roman dialect for ‘let’s go eat’!) sometimes ironically in regard to the use of dialect, sometimes seriously.
What is very serious about the restaurant Tanto Pe' Magnà is the quality of the food. Drink selections are nothing to write home about. I would encourage a good ol’ bottle of Peroni to share at the table. Every pasta I have tried here has been dreamy. It is some of the freshest pasta I have tasted, and the cacio e pepe is a particular treat. Most times when I come, we opt for a kind of makeshift ‘family style’ meal in order to try all of the delicious options. I certainly recommend prioritizing pasta here, though antipasti and secondi also impress!
Recommended Dishes
Antipasti- Panzanella (technically a Tuscan dish, but so delicious here!)
Photo Credit to my talented photographer friend Mike Kim; he took this gorgeous photo while visiting Rome and before ‘tucking into’ these delicious pastas
Primi-Cacio e pepe for sure, then any others to your taste. The Rigatoni sugo coda is a Roman classic. I would recommend either in pasta form or as a second. ‘Coda’ is oxtail, and the chunky pieces are prepared in a tasty and rich red sauce over rigatoni pasta. The ‘Gricia’ is also excellent here.
Secondo- if you do not get the Rigatoni sugo coda here then get the Coda alla Vaccinara (the full oxtail) or the Coniglio (rabbit) cacciatora is also delicious, if you want something a little different. If not, the pollo peperoni (chicken with peppers) or bocconcini vitelli con Carciofi (veal with artichokes) are also solid choices. If you are not into meat, the scamorza cheese with cicoria is excellent!
Contorni- cicoria (bitter taste but to try if you have not!)