Spots in Ravenna

As mentioned in the introduction, Ravenna has been granted UNESCO status for the ‘early Christian monuments of Ravenna.’

The eight structures cited on the website are the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Neonian Baptistery, the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, the Arian Baptistery, the Archiepiscopal Chapel, the Mausoleum of Theodoric, the Church of San Vitale and the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe. They were all constructed between the 5th-6th centuries (CE), and you can read a little about each one on the UNESCO website linked above. I encourage you to visit them all, but if you only have time for the highlights, the most outstanding and expansive mosaics are in San Vitale and the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe. You will get a great feel for the intoxicating power of this art form by visiting these complexes. I have included the Domus dei Tappetti di Pietra, which are Byzantine floor mosaics from a domestic context, and thus not included in the Early Christian UNESCO designation; they show the layers of history discovered less than 30 years ago.

San Vitale

The ‘Basilica’ of San Vitale is called as such, but the church actually does not appear in ‘basilica’ form. Construction started under Bishop Ecclesius in 526 CE and was finished in 547 CE. I reference my Art History classes often, as they have had a profound impact on my appreciation of art; however, works that were included in the broad ‘survey’ classes, indeed, ‘serve’ as reminders of which works are considered influential masterpieces throughout the course of history. That is relevant because the mosaics in San Vitale are a rather permanent fixture on any ‘Great Works’ style curriculum. These Byzantine mosaics are “the largest and best preserved” outside of Constantinople.

The mosiacs glorify Justinian, who ruled the Byzantine Empire from 527-565 CE, in all his imperial glory. He ruled from Constantinople of course, but as Ravenna had always held a powerful seat in government, this important series of political and cultural works were realized. Ravenna was the capital city of the Western Roman Empire from 402 CE until that empire collapsed in 476 CE, and again, it became the official seat of the Byzantine governor of Italy after the Exarchate of Ravenna. (I have tried to synthesize and summarize a long and complex history in a few sentences, so please explore the links to gain a more thorough understanding.) The two side panels featuring Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora are the show stoppers. Justinian is dressed in a royal purple with a characteristically Byzantine golden halo.

On the opposite wall, Theodora is represented in a similarly powerful position; indeed, Theodora was wife to the Emperor, but also his most trusted advisor and thus a powerful woman who used her influence to rule, even if indirectly. Read more about her life in the Britannica article linked above.

Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe

This Basilica lies about 5 KM outside of the center of Ravenna. When I visited, we actually took public transportation, that is, an easy public bus from the city center to the bus stop just outside of the church. You could also drive in less than 10 minutes, or even walk about an hour. This basilica is worth it for the incredible apse mosaic. The basilica is also recognized in terms of the exterior as “an outstanding example of the early Christian basilica in its purity and simplicity of its design.” It was consecrated in the year 549, and interestingly, at that time ‘Classe’ was located on the seafront. Over the last 1500 years, the coastline has moved about 9 KM, and the important basilica has space to itself. The basilica is dedicated to Saint Apollinaris who was the first bishop of Ravenna and the ancient port town of Classe as well. His relics were moved, however, to the Basilica of Sant' Apollinare Nuovo which is another one of the eight structures that form the UNESCO designation. As mentioned, the apse is truly striking; a unique combination of seafoam green and the characteristic gold will enchant. In the upper part of the decoration, you will notice the ‘hand of god’ over the ornate cross, specifically the Crux Gemmata. Below, in the seafoam green field, Saint Apollinaris is pictured in the middle of twelve white lambs, symbolizing the faithful. This basilica is another ‘art history class’ treasure, and in my opinion, worth the short journey out.

Domus dei Tappetti di Pietra

My mom amongst the mosaics, with “the dance of the four seasons” in the foreground

This domus (the latin name for ‘home’) contains impressive 5th-6th century floor mosaics as opposed to the aforementioned treasures which are found in the apses and on the walls of basilicas. In fact the name actually translates to ‘house of the stone carpets’ and it was only discovered in 1993. The discovery is considered one of the biggest and most important archeological discoveries in recent Italian history. You enter to see the mosaics through the 18th century Church of Sant’Eufemia.

Once inside you can walk over these expansive treasures on raised transparent runways. Some highlights are “The Dance of the Four Seasons” and “The Good Shepherd”, but you will also see decorative details of flowers, vegetables, geometric shapes all meticulously placed serving as the ‘carpets’ for an ancient Byzantine home. Find out more practical information about tickets and opening hours here.

Restaurants in Ravenna

Regional Features