Regional Features

Ferrara

Ferrara, I believe, is still one of those ‘underrated’ and somewhat ‘undiscovered’ towns in Italy. It has everything one wants in a picturesque town—excellent local dishes, a castle, important cathedral, beautiful Renaissance buildings and neighborhoods. In fact, Ferrara was granted UNESCO World Heritage status and bears the epithet of ‘City of the Renaissance.’ According to the UNESCO website: “The humanist concept of the 'ideal city' came to life here in the neighbourhoods built from 1492 onwards by Biagio Rossetti according to the new principles of perspective.” The Ferrara Cathedral was unfortunately under heavy scaffolding when I visited in November 2018, but still, the Romanesque design in the 12th century facade is impressive. It is the Este family, however, that was responsible for the transformation into the admirable Renaissance city; the famous castle, which I will recommend below, bears the family name. Furthermore, the Jewish community in Ferrara has a significant role throughout the history, at least from the medieval period to the present. The Museum of Italian Judaism and the Shoah (MEIS) opened in 2017, but it is still in the process of expanding, so check opening times on the linked website above.

The divine Cappellacci di zucca (cappellacci pasta filled with pumpkin)

Eat at Ca D’Frara. This is a perfect Michelin recommended place to eat the signature dish of the city: cappellacci di zucca (cappellacci pasta filled with pumpkin). I would say Ferrara lays claim to the original pumpkin pasta. The little pouches of supple pasta stuffed with sweet pumpkin tossed with brown butter and topped with sage and a sprinkle of parmigiano are absolute perfection. You should also try the local Salama Da Sugo served with potato puree.

Al Brindisi in Ferrara

Experience Al Brindisi, the oldest osteria/enoteca (casual eatery/ wine bar) in the world. This ‘record’ was granted by the Guinness Book, and the place dates to 1435. They offer a full menu which you can check out on the website. According to the official website, Nicolaus Copernicus lived above the osteria while he was studying at the University of Ferrara and formulating his revolutionary theory that placed the sun and not the earth at the center of the universe.

a view of the moat around the Castello Estense

Visit the Castello Estense (Este castle), also called Castello di San Michele. Probably the most striking spot in the city, the construction of this castle began in the late 14th century, and it is quite distinctive due to the impressive moat and four imposing towers. Sadly, the castle was built to protect the ruling d'Este family from the desperate Ferrarese people who were disgruntled over taxes and floods of the Po River. The Este family ruled for over two centuries, from the 14th-16th, and certainly transformed the city with ambitious urban development plans, hence the recognition as a UNESCO world heritage city. Still, the need to build a castle to protect themselves from ‘the people’ alludes to a different version of history, one that sees poor citizens struggling to survive under an all powerful family. Alas, the muddy histories that fill every century, every era.

Parma

I took a day trip to Parma to meet a professor of Romantic literature who still teaches at the University there. Although my stay was short, it was so pleasant that Parma has always remained implanted in my mind and warms my heart when I think about it. We shared a delicious lunch while conversing about Byron in Italy, and then he was kind enough to lead me to the Cathedral and Baptistery, in addition to pointing out of worthy sites such as San Giovanni Evangelista, originally constructed in the 10th century. The University of Parma is one of the oldest in the world, which makes sense as the small city is neighbor to Bologna, which holds the title of oldest. In fact, you can reach Parma from Bologna in just under an hour.

Eat at Ristorante Gallo d’Oro, which you will find at the heart of the city center. Parma is quaint and small and this restaurant is equally intimate, with a domestic feel and delicious regional cuisine.

Visit the Parma Cathedral and Baptistery. On the inside, both contain elaborate and detailed frescos, the frescos found in the former are considered late Renaissance and the latter frescos were created earlier in the 13th century. These monuments are said to chart the transition between Romanesque and Gothic style on the exterior. The exterior of the Cathedral is an important representation of the Romanesque style as construction began in the mid 11th century, but the Baptistery, as mentioned, typifies Gothic style. The historic center of Parma is on the tentative list, waiting for recognition as a UNESCO site.

Wander through the Parco Ducale, a beautiful park which is very close to the city center. After visiting the Romanesque and Renaissance treasures, I took a very pleasant stroll through these public gardens before making my way back to the train station. I like Lonely Planet’s poetic sentiment in describing the gardens as “seem[ing] like Parma personified – refined, peaceful and with barely a blade of grass out of place.” The gardens were created in the mid 16th century around the Farnese family’s  Palazzo Ducale.  

Modena

Modena has become quite popular in recent years not least for Massimo Bottura’s three-Michelin star Osteria Francescana, named the ‘best’ restaurant in the world in 2016 and again in 2018, and Aziz Ansari’s second season of Master of None, in which he moves to the city for none other than culinary pursuits. Thus, I encourage you to go to Osteria Francescana if you have the opportunity and the desire. Of course, you should look into booking months in advance. The restaurant has a system in which they release reservations on the first day of the month (for now six months later). Find out more on the website. Modena, however, is a city that abounds in excellent restaurant choices, so I will personally vouch for Taverna dei Servi.

gnocco fritto at Taverna Dei Servi

Eat at Taverna dei Servi. Start with the traditional gnocco fritto (fried squares of bread, but the translation does not do them justice). The restaurant features all of the regional classics in an atmosphere with casual elegance. If you have time in Modena, I recommend spending it meandering through the streets, finding restaurants and cafés that look good, doing some cross checks on the internet and finding your own ‘hidden’ treasures. This is how I found Taverna dei Servi, and there are so many other restaurants in Modena that I am itching to try.

Views of Modena Cathedral and the Torre Ghirlandina with a market in the piazza

Visit the UNESCO world heritage site of the Modena Cathedral. According to the website, the cathedral complex offers a ‘supreme example of early Romanesque art’. It is the work of Lanfranco and Wiligelmus. Be sure to climb the Torre Ghirlandina, the 12th century bell tower, located just next to the cathedral. Admire the view of the Emilia-Romagna region from on high. When I visited there was also an interesting open air market in the center of the Piazza Grande, just in front of the cathedral.

Explore the history of Italian motor vehicles, if this piques your interest. Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati and Ducati have headquarters and museums nearby. You can explore all of the well made websites that I have linked above. Cars are not on my passion list, but if they are on yours, or a travel companion’s, I encourage you to visit these websites and plan a trip. As many of the museums are quite large and you can even tour the production lines, they are located outside of the city center. Thus, it will be easiest to visit if you have a car at your disposal.