Regional Features

Pila

     If you are looking for a ski area to connect with a visit to the city of Aosta, Pila is the best and closest option. Full disclosure: I did not ski when I visited Aosta, but I did take the cable car up to the Pila ski resort to witness many happy skiers and snowboarders. The view is sublime; you can observe the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and Monta Rosa. Find out more here and here.

Eat at the Trattoria Dei Maestri. This restaurant was recently renovated in a modern mountain style and the views from the wide glass windows are stunning. Pila also offers many chalets and so-called ‘huts on the slopes’ for a variety of quality Alpine cuisine when you are ready to refuel.

Ski on about thirty ski runs with the majority catering to intermediate skiers. (These runs are labeled ‘red’ in Europe). In fact, 22 of the runs are labeled ‘red’ which in translating to American ski terms might be better labeled ‘upper intermediate.’ Still, for expert skiers, Pila might not thrill for more than a compact weekend, so bear this in mind.

Relax and breathe in the mountain air. There are a number of restaurants, bars and some shops. There is even an ice rink in the area. The après-ski culture is also lively, especially on weekends.

Geneva

     If it makes sense in your travel plans, I encourage you to cross country lines and visit the charming city of Geneva, Switzerland. I only stayed for three days, but I still feel like I got a good taste of and introduction to the city. My purpose was literary, as I wanted to see the Villa Diodati rented by Lord Byron in the summer of 1816. As the story goes, Byron, John Polidori (his physician-companion), Mary and Percy Shelley participated in a ghost story writing competition. Mary Shelley ‘created a monster’ or what would become hailed as the first science fiction novel and a classic of Romantic and Gothic literature, Frankenstein. The Villa is still privately owned and in a quiet, prosperous suburb outside of Geneva; thus, my literary pilgrimage entailed some stealthy photographs and a ramble around before heading back into the city. Geneva is pricey (mamma mia!), so a few days will be enough for your wallet, but here is an abridged version of recommendations (all of which come from my dear friend Hayden who has lived in the city for many years!)

Eat at Café du Soleil if you are looking for traditional fondue in an intimate setting. In fact, the authentic Genevan bistrot is located in a house that is over 400 years old, according to their website. I had another great experience at Café des Sources; it is relaxed and authentic with excellent food, prepared beautifully. I had lunch here before visiting St Peter’s Cathedral. Another cute and delicious bistro called Café des Negociants is located in a neighborhood called ‘Carouge’ which has a very ‘Frenchy’ feel; fun for a stroll and some shopping.

View from St. Peter’s in Geneva

Visit the city’s main cathedral, that is, St. Peter’s. Built in the 12th-13th centuries, the cathedral is famous for the association with John Calvin, a leader of the Protestant Reformation, who preached here. Snap a picture of the wooden chair used by Calvin and on display with a plaque to identify it. I also recommend paying the small fee to climb up the north and south towers; the views from up top are spectacular. You will be able to snap photos of the city and the lake with the iconic Jet d'Eau in full view.

Experience fondue and/or drinks at the Bains des Paquis. I was informed by my friend that you need to book in advance for the fondue, so I stopped by in person earlier in the day and made a reservation. The atmosphere is casual and frenzied, but the view is phenomenal. You can grab casual seats that are situated on a pier in the lake. The primary function of the establishment is as a public bath which turns into a sauna in the wintertime if you are interested in getting wet.

Fondue dippin’at Bains des Paquis

Literary Bonus

Vevey and Chateau de Chillon (Chillon Castle)

As a part of my literary pilgrimage, I took a train out to the city of Vevey situated on the northeastern side of Lake Geneva, close to the city of Montreux. Vevey is perfectly charming, and even if you do not share an attachment to the novella Daisy Miller by Henry James, I would recommend a visit. The first two chapters of James’ novella take place in this lakeside town, which was a more popular tourist destination in the 19th century than it is now. (This means fewer crowds!) The town is described vividly in the first paragraphs of the novel:

At the little town of Vevey, in Switzerland, there is a particularly comfortable hotel. There are, indeed, many hotels, for the entertainment of tourists is the business of the place, which, as many travelers will remember, is seated upon the edge of a remarkably blue lake—a lake that it behooves every tourist to visit. The shore of the lake presents an unbroken array of establishments of this order, of every category, from the "grand hotel" of the newest fashion, with a chalk-white front, a hundred balconies, and a dozen flags flying from its roof, to the little Swiss pension of an elder day, with its name inscribed in German-looking lettering upon a pink or yellow wall and an awkward summerhouse in the angle of the garden.

Chateau de Chillon

In the second chapter of the novel, the two protagonists, Daisy and Winterbourne, take a steamboat over to the Chateau de Chillon, another wildly popular tourist attraction at the time (the late 19th century). You can emulate this experience by taking a boat from Vevey to Chillon. This was a delightful journey with beautiful views of the lake and mountains above. The Castle has a fascinating political history in addition to the literary associations. (I make my high school English literature students research all of this context when we study the novel Daisy Miller.) For a brief recap, the castle has been written about since the 12th century, but it came to touristic popularity because of a poem written by none other than Lord George Gordon Byron (my man!). Byron romanticized the true story of the Genevan patriot, François Bonivard, imprisoned in the castle 1532 to 1536. Find out more about the history on the castle’s comprehensive and official website.

Parco Nazionale Gran Paradiso

Drive through the region of Valle d’Aosta, especially if you visit in the spring or summer. As mentioned, the region is not very big. You should head to the Parco Nazionale Gran Paradiso for a very scenic drive and the opportunity to explore a beautiful national park in Italy.

Hike within the Parco Nazionale Gran Paradiso. There are 500 Km of paths through five valleys, with more information available on the official website. You can also look for guided hiking and biking tours, if this suits your needs.  Girosole, a local tour company, offers guided hikes within the park, for example.

See the ‘capital’ of the park, the town of Cogne. This old mining town is located in the heart of the park, and it would make a good base to explore the park.