Introduction to the city of Spoleto
The old town of Spoleto up above
Spoleto can also be reached by direct train from Termini in less than 1 hour and 30 minutes. The train station is located in the new part of town and as you walk towards the city center you are greeted with the old town gazing down at you. I relished this experience; it is almost philosophical. You have a moment to think, ‘I know where I am going.’
Now, when I stayed for a weekend, we decided to walk up into the old town. It was just over a 30-minute walk from the station, but the walk is uphill. Personally, I think huffing up steep streets is a part of the Umbrian experience, and your Google maps will show you the way. Still, there are other options. Spoleto is equipped with a system of escalators that will take you up to the historic city center. This option might be a good compromise, as you will need to walk a bit on both ends, but it will be on flat ground. Otherwise, there should be a few taxis outside of the station ready to drive you up to your destination in 10-15 minutes. We stayed at a charming and intimate hotel, and I would recommend it to you. The Hotel Gattapone has the feel of a wooden mountain lodge with Scandinavian design, and the view showcases what is probably the most famous attraction in Spoleto, the Ponte Delle Torri. We had breakfast with a view of this 14th century bridge built on the foundations of a Roman aqueduct. Although many websites use the 14th century as the date of construction confidently, it is safest to say that the bridge was built between the 13th-15th centuries.
Our breakfast table in the forefront
I quote Johann Wolfgang von Goethe again in his description of the beauty and purpose:
“I climbed Spoleto, and was on the aqueduct, which is also a bridge from one mountain to another. Through all their centuries, the ten brick arches which reach across the valley have stood there so quietly, and the water still flows in every corner of Spoleto.”
Goethe visited Spoleto in 1786, and I want to add a quick side note. What brings me comfort about studying the travel writing from the 18th- 19th centuries is how easy it is to reflect on the relativity of time. Goethe wrote his recollections over 200 years ago, which is relatively quite a long time ago; yet he is describing the ‘centuries’ that the bridge stood before his visit. Back to the present day, the bridge is both impressive during the daytime as you can truly appreciate the natural beauty on both sides, but it glows with a warm golden light in the darkness that is equally impressive. Unfortunately, I have just read that the bridge is still closed to pedestrians as it was damaged in 2016 August earthquake; still, it is possible to take in the views. I will monitor the status of the bridge closing and update as necessary. Never fear, the town has more to offer and remains my top choice for Umbria.
On the subject of layered history, you might have noticed a trend that most cities I have recommended have attractions from the early Roman periods to the medieval and renaissance periods (and of course the 20th-21st centuries, if you include the culinary). Spoleto is no different. I certainly recommend a visit to the Roman Theatre. Very near the Roman theatre is one of the restaurants I have recommended, Ristorante Apollinare; it is also Michelin recommended. Find out more in the description in the subsequent spot and restaurant posts.
The town of Spoleto is picturesque as expected, and not overrun with tourists. In fact, as an article in Italy Magazine notes, “The most popular TV soap in Italy, Don Matteo, is filmed in Spoleto because it is is [sic] considered to be THE purest of all the Italian cities, not having been spoilt by tourism.” Hence, you should spend your time between a delicious lunch and dinner simply walking through the cobbled streets and archways, exploring shops and churches along the way. You must pay homage to the 12th century Romanesque cathedral Santa Maria Assunta.
The Rocca Albornoziana fortress
The Rocca Albornoziana fortress is also one of the highlights of the city; it was constructed in the 14th century. An interesting historical note is that Lucrezia Borgia (whom you will be familiar with if you indulged in the Showtime historical drama called The Borgias) lived in the fortress when she was governor of the Duchy. The Rocca is a dominating feature in images of Spoleto. It commands from the Sant'Elia hill. The historic fortress now also houses the National Museum of the Duchy of Spoleto. Depending on how historically driven you want your Umbria visit to be, you might want to consider visiting it. Otherwise, admiring the Rocca from a far is also an option. I did not include it as one of the three ‘spots’ for Spoleto, but definitely experience it if a 14th century castle is what you need in your life during your visit.