Food and Wine

Tuscan food is always a treat, no matter the season, but my suggestion would be to experience this region in the fall or winter.  Two of the more famous dishes to start are a Ribollita, a hearty soup that literally means ‘reboiled’; thus, it traditionally involved the leftover minestrone soup with the addition of other goodies the chef has around. That said, if you order this dish in a restaurant (that I recommend) it will be prepared fresh. It is a perfect fall dish. Another delicious Tuscan starter that has achieved global popularity and is often experimented with in American restaurants is the Panzanella; it is essentially a bread salad, but when that crunchy Tuscan bread is soaked in high quality olive oil and tossed with fresh tomato, cucumber, onion and basil, and it is heavenly.

Truffles, glorious truffles, are hunted in the wooded areas of this region. They can be stored and used year-round, so you will find them on the menu regardless of the season; however, the big months are October and November, especially for the more expensive white truffles. There are also ‘summer’ white truffles, which are in season from mid-January through the end of April. “The winter black truffles are in season from November through to March, and summer black truffles are from May through September,” according to a Guide to Italian Truffles. You might be thinking, hm, that is almost all year-round. Indeed, when and where there is moisture in the ground in the forested areas of Tuscany, truffles may be found. The neighboring region of Umbria is also celebrated for the truffles, which makes geographical sense, and you will find many similarities in these regional cuisines. Look out for the tagliolini al tartufo, both black and white can and will be used depending on the season and availability.

Cinghiale in umido (tender wild boar)

Another fall fan favorite is the pappardelle al cinghiale, as pictured in the cover photo to this post. The type of pasta is flat and thick and suits the hearty wild boar ragu perfectly. They make a delectable one at La Grotta, one of the recommended restaurants in Cortona. You can also order the tender cinghiale as a second course as I did at the incredible Buca di Sant’Antonio Restaurant in Lucca.

Also for secondi, the Bistecca alla Fiorentina is king, or queen, as in fact, the word is feminine in Italian. What makes this steak so good, and the most famous in Italian cuisine? The steak is from the Chianina cattle, raised in the region and meticulously prepared with spices such as rosemary and sage. Save room after the primo.  

Wine

If you love wine, it is certainly worth it to take a few days and visit the cantine (wineries) dotted around the region. You can even book a night or two at many of them. I would recommend Dievole. I visited many years ago with my partner at the time when he was filming a promotional video for a tour guide in Tuscany.

  The beauty and quality of the place has not waned. In fact, it seems the property has aged well (I could not resist the wine pun here). The rooms are lovely, and the property has 17 miles of nature trails. Here, or at another cantina or agriturismo, you will be able to experience the famed Tuscan countryside.  You can have picnics on the premises in addition to wine tastings and tours, and there is a pool for the summer months. This winery is located in the heart of Toscana, and even one night will enhance a visit to this region. There are oh, so, many, wineries and cantine to visit in Toscana, so do some additional research and find the right fit for you.

A Sangiovese from Cortona

Sangiovese is the grape used in many Tuscan wines, Chianti and Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, for example. You might be more familiar with the term Chianti than Sangiovese (and maybe not! I mean no insult to wine intelligence), but to clarify, just in case, Chianti is a ‘demoninazione’ (designation of origin), that is, a name for a wine made within the Chianti region that must be at least “70% Sangiovese, the rest can be blended from a combination of red and white grapes (whites can make up no more than 10% of the blend).” Read more here to explore the difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico. This article helped me clarify some of the distinctions regarding how wines made with the same grape, in this case, Sangiovese, can have vastly different flavor profiles. Then, read this article to understand the Brunello di Montalcino more fully. The Brunello di Montalcino is produced in a different area of Tuscany (read about it here) and must be made with 100% Sangiovese grapes. According to Wine Folly, “the Sangiovese grape is a bit of a chameleon” which is a great thing for groups traveling in Tuscany because you will be able to taste many wines made with the Sangiovese grape, and everyone should be able to find something they like. For instance, I am not as enthusiastic about red wines with heavy tannins; thus, a Brunello di Montalcino is not usually my first choice. However, I do enjoy a lighter wine made with Sangiovese grapes. Recruit your waiters (or sommeliers) to suggest a Sangiovese based wine to suit your particular tastes while in this region.