Regional Features

Gallipoli

The waters of Gallipoli

Gallipoli is a favorite destination for Italians on holiday, especially in the month of August. I have two Italian colleagues who go with their families every summer. It is charming, and it has a fascinating history to explore. Due to its position which now affords beautiful sea views, it has been quite vulnerable to attacks throughout centuries. Gallipoli was a part of the Magna Grecia (greater Greece) like much of Salento, before it was controlled by the Roman Empire and probably sacked by Goths and Vandals in the early middle ages. The Byzantine, Norman and Spanish influences are evident in the architecture as well.

A Google Maps image of the old town and 17th century bridge

Explore the old town center which is connected to the ‘new town’ by a 17th century bridge. While walking along the outskirts of the city, along the water, you will, indeed, skirt the city walls, built for defensive purposes mostly in the 14th century, according to the Thinking Traveller. Once you have taken the promenade along the water, enter into the circuitous streets of the city center. Similar to Lecce, you will find some Baroque landmarks here, such as the 17th century Sant'Agata.

Eat at L’Angolo Blu. This restaurant was recommended by one of my old students, and we found the seafood and atmosphere to live up to expectations! You can book through their website, and you should book for lunch or dinner, especially during July and August.

Spiaggia della Purita under the defensive city walls of Gallipoli

Swim at the Spiaggia della Purita, just underneath the city walls of Lecce. In many cases it is advisable to move beyond the the city confines to find a pristine and beautiful beach. In this case, you do not have to go far. The water is clear and when we visited, the beach was not very crowded. It is a public beach, so there are no sun beds to rent, but I must say it is one of the most beautiful beaches so close to a ‘city’ and port that I have seen.

Otranto

Otranto first came on my radar because of a literary connection. Horace Walpole’s 1764 novel The Castle of Otranto is considered the first Gothic novel, and it has inspired generations of writers including Mary Shelley and Edgar Allen Poe in the 19th century, and then countless others as the conventions of the genre were more firmly established throughout the 20th century. In this work of fiction, however, the castle is largely a backdrop for the story Walpole tells. Like Gallipoli the history of Otranto can be traced to the Greek period, then the Roman and later Byzantine eras. Otranto was famously invaded and occupied, however, by the Ottomans, as the costal town lies open to the Adriatic and the Ottoman empire was powerful during the 15th century. Otranto was controlled by the Turks for 13 months between 1480 and 1481.

Walk the promenade of Otranto. This seaside town has a particularly picturesque wide promenade for a leisurely stroll. There are many restaurants along the way and you will pass the famed castle as well. Take the walk during the day and again in the evening when the sun has gone down and the characteristic limestone is highlighted with a golden light. The atmosphere is jovial and relaxed, perfect for an evening seaside stroll. Here you can see part of the promenade in real time on a Live Camera.

The Argonese Castle in Otranto

Visit the castle of Otranto, yes, the namesake of the 18th century Gothic novel. The official name is the Castello Aragonese as it was built in the late 15th century soon after the city was liberated from Ottoman control. The name ‘Argonese’ refers to the ‘Crown of Aragon’ which is located in modern day Spain. The composite monarchy was very powerful in the 15th century and controlled much of Southern Italy and Sardinia during this century. You will see references to Spanish influence in southern regions throughout this website, so if you want to know a bit more about the general history of Aragon, explore the link above. You can visit the castle on every day except Sunday.

Relax at some of the beaches in Otranto, when you want an easy and readily accessible beach experience. If you are looking for beaches that are more remote (but none the less crowded; unfortunately, this is unavoidable in August especially) head up the north coast. The Baia Dei Turchi comes highly recommended. The name, Bay of Turks, refers to the 15th century Turkish invasion detailed above, but the area is protected and in close proximity to two lakes (Alimini Piccolo and Alimini Grande) , the larger of which opens into the sea.

Bari

The facade of the Basilica di San Nicola (the Basilica of Saint Nicholas)

I enjoyed Bari more than I thought I would on multiple occasions. I knew that it was a popular city for transfers by train, plane and boat, but I am very glad we chose to spend at least one night on our way to Matera in Basilicata. We happened to visit at the beginning of December, and the weather was cold, but the Christmas spirit was in the air, and it gave the southern costal town a festive aura that we were happy to embrace. Ironically, the city has a special Christmas connection because of the literal Old Saint Nick.

Feeling the love with Old St Nick

Visit the Basilica di San Nicola (the Basilica of Saint Nicholas). Built during the Italo-Norman period, the church contains relics, and bones in particular, of the ‘Greek’ Saint. The story of how the relics arrived in Bari is quite scandalous and historical at the same time. Saint Nicholas was from Myra, a city that was part of ancient Greece, then Roman Greece , then Byzantine Greece. He died in 343 CE, and 200 years later, a church dedicated to him was built in Myra. In 1087, Myra came under Muslim control, specifically by the Seljuk Turks; consequently, a group of Italian merchants ‘saved’ the relics from this church and brought them back to Italy in this very year. There was some debate as to whether the precious bones would go to Venice or Bari. Bari proved victor and the Basilica di San Nicola was built to house them between 1087 and 1197. Saint Nicholas is known as the patron of “sailors, merchants, archers, repentant thieves, prostitutes, children, brewers, pawnbrokers, and students” to rather ungraciously quote from Wikipedia. I didn’t know the origin of the St Nick story, however, and this real man, Bishop of Myra become he became a saint, was known for leaving secret gifts in order to help people anonymously. As you can imagine, the basilica in Bari is a pilgrimage site, and I was very happy to make this unknowing pilgrimage just weeks before Christmas celebrations.

View of ancient columns juxtaposed with a contemporary street scene in Bari Vecchia, return trip in Spring 2022

The Piazza Mercantile in Bari Vecchia lit up at night

Explore ‘Bari Vecchia’ . The pastel colors of houses, the hidden courtyards, the archways and narrow passageways will all delight you while wandering around ‘the old part’ of town. Through some cursory internet exploration you can find praise for the aesthetics of the meandering streets of the city center, but again, I had neglected to do this research before arriving on my first visit. I do not often like to be ‘surprised’ while traveling, that is, I like to be prepared with spots to visit and quality restaurants booked. A spontaneous wander through Bari Vecchia was a nice surprise, however, and I embraced the glory of this experience on my return visit in 2022. The meandering alleyways are perfect for a ramble, and you will duck under low arches to stumble upon beautiful scenes, such as the image with columns above. Do wander your way past the Castello Svevo, however. It is a Norman castle, originally built in the 12th century and surrounded by a moat. Be sure to also make your way to the ‘Strada delle Orecchiette’ where you can see the OG Pasta Grannies at work. The street is actually called Via Arco Basso; put it in the Google or stumble upon it and witness the Signora Nunzia and her crew on the job.

A video from the ‘Strada delle Orecchiette’ captured by my mom in July 2023

Promenade views

Experience the Mercato Del Pesce (the fish market), and then take a walk on the palm lined promenade, specifically, the Lungomare Imperatore Augusto. You will find the seafood market down on the Molo Sant’Antonio. We watched a man standing on one of the piers continually slap an octopus (polpo) on the ground to either kill (?) or tenderize it. I love eating fresh polpo, but to be honest, this sight was a little disturbing. Also, trying fresh sea urchin at 9 AM in the morning was an experience, but not a wholly negative one. Visiting this buzzing market on the pier is certainly a sensory experience, sights, sounds, tastes and smells converge, creating an almost synesthetic experience if you let yourself lean in.

Man mid octopus slap to close this Regional Features post