Historical Cafes and Contemporary Bars in Torino
Torino’s cafe culture is related to its powerful position as capital of the Duchy of Savoy, a title granted in 1563, and then as the later capital of the Kingdom of Italy from 1861-1865. In fact, Turin earned the nickname of “the cradle of Italian liberty” mostly because Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, a fundamental (perhaps the most significant) player in the unification of Italy, AND the first prime minister of Italy, was from Turin. According to the official website, he ritually visited Stratta for a cup of hot chocolate while working in the important Palazzo Carignano. Other 18th and 19th century intellectuals, revolutionaries, artists and politicians were known to congregate and hold influential discussions in the context of these elegant cafes.
Stratta
Address- Piazza S. Carlo, 191
Phone- +39 011 547920
Hours- Tuesday-Friday from 8.30 AM-7.30 PM, Saturday-Sunday from 9 AM-7.30 PM, closed Monday
Stratta with some beautiful ‘portici’ of Piazza San Carlo in the background
Stratta is a famous caffe and pastry shop, est. 1836. It is located in the beautiful, historic Piazza San Carlo. According to the official website, it was created “as a confectionery shop and supplier to the Royal family and Count Camillo Benso di Cavour.” Here, we first sampled a bicerin, that is the famous local drink made from espresso, hot chocolate, frothy milk or cream while gazing out on to the “drawing room” of the city, as the piazza is affectionately called.
Caffe San Carlo
Address- Piazza S. Carlo, 144
Phone- +39 011 532586
Hours- Monday-Friday 8AM-11PM, Saturday-Sunday 9AM-1AM
Piazza San Carlo with the equestrian statue of Emmanuel Philibert, Duke of Savoy, by Carlo Marochetti from 1838
On the opposite end of the gorgeous Piazza San Carlo is Caffe San Carlo from 1822 with crystal chandeliers and the Midas touch. The pervasive gold is complimented by equally conspicuous mirrors, marble, red velvet, classical columns and statues. As in Turn there are ‘so many caffes and so little time’ I only stopped in to admire the aesthetics of Caffe San Carlo, but it is reported that the Lavazza on offer is high quality. Lavazza, now a popular brand all over Italy and around the world, was founded in Turin in 1895.
Caffe Al Bicerin
Address-Piazza della Consolata, 5
Phone- +39 011 436 9325
Hours- Every day 8.30AM-7.30PM, except closed on Wednesday
One of the oldest cafés in Turin is the Caffe Al Bicerin from 1763. It stands alone unlike the two former caffes in close proximity. Bicerin’s claim to fame is in the name. As explained above, the ‘Bicerin’ coffee is espresso layered with warm chocolate and frothy milk/cream. As the story goes “the cream of Torinese society often attended mass at the Sanctuary opposite the café. Having fasted in the morning to be able to take the Holy Communion, they were in need of a quick, sweet pick me up—and nothing served the purpose better than a bicerin.” Read more in this article published by Italy Magazine. This caffe can boast about many famous visitors; the literary ones interest me most. As cited on the official website, the 19th century French author Alexandre Dumas praised the original bicerin in a letter. Also, the eminent Italian author “Umberto Eco included a long and detailed description of the Caffè Al Bicerin in his historical novel The Prague Cemetery, using it as a setting for part of the book.”
Other honorable caffe mentions are Caffé Mulassano in art deco style and the birthplace of the "tramezzino", which is probably my least favorite Italian culinary invention, if I am honest. Also, Caffe Florio from 1780, which was another one of Cavour’s haunts, and the 1858 Baratti & Milano (with very recognizable gianduiotto chocolates as well.)
Contemporary Bars and a chocolate shop
Via Baretti and the area of San Salvario
A quiet street view in San Salvario, during an afternoon lull
The Via Baretti is a street in the San Salvario area that is lined with bars. The gentrification process was in full effect by the time we visited just a few years ago. If you do a quick internet scan you will still cross euphemistic descriptions such as an ‘up and coming’ or ‘ethnically diverse’ neighborhood; some personal TripAdvisor reviews are more openly hostile stating, that the area is ‘not safe’ and full of ‘immigrants’. You can read more of the pretty cringe-y debate here. (I am confident the area has only continued to gentrify, for better or worse, since the last time I visited Torino.) We already found the area to be safe, lively, filled with young people around aperitivo time. Have a drink at Petit Baladin (a favorite for craft beer and a satellite location of Open Baladin in Rome) or Bottega Baretti. These are suggestions for bars; the beauty of this area is that you can head to the intersection of Via Sant’Anselmo and Via Baretti and take a seat at any place that looks appealing.
Guido Gobino
Address- Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange, 1
Phone- +39 011 566 0707
Hours- Every day 10 AM-8PM, except Monday 11 PM-8PM
Chocolate therapy at Guido Gobino
Guido Gobino is a popular chocolate shop where you can do an elegant artisanal chocolate tasting (and have your second Bicerin) at the iconic orange and black tables set up outside. They are serious about cocoa here. It is a place to indulge your own sweet tooth and pick up some gifts to take back home. The main café (so-called Bottega) is near the famous Egyptian museum; you should book tickets online ahead of time to be sure you do not make the same mistake we did. Alas, if you miss the museum for any reason, do be sure to make yourself feel better with some gourmet chocolate.