A Google Maps image of Mantova. As you can see it is in closer proximity to the cities of Verona and Bologna than Milan

The phrase ‘hidden gem’ might be overused in the world of travel; however, I believe it is an apt description for the city of Mantova (Mantua in English). The pull of the Lombardia region is so often the lakes, and while they are worthy of recognition, this Renaissance city should not be overlooked. I recently spent a day here, and if you are interested in an underrated and yet to be fully discovered place, jump on a train!

Interestingly, Mantova is located about 2 hours by train from Milan, the capital of the Lombardy region, and only just over an hour from Bologna in Emilia-Romagna and just under an hour from Verona in Veneto. In fact, this confluence of regional cultures is quite evident while visiting the city.

House wine ‘Lambrusco’ at Osteria ai Ranari

For example, Lambrusco wine is often associated with Emilia-Romagna; however, there is also a DOC for the Lambrusco Mantovana which is produced in the area just outside of the city. The historical city of Mantova is small enough to walk around and experience within the course of a day. For a true feel for the city, I would recommend staying at least one night.

Eat at Osteria ai Ranari. This restaurant, recommended by an Italian family member who lived in the area for a few years, was excellent! From the font on the entrance sign, a vintage feel pervades the entire place. Classic dishes from the region were all delectable. I dined alone and overindulged because I wanted to try everything, and it was worth it.

I started with culatello (a type of cured pork, similar to prosciutto) and mostarda Mantovana. Mostarda in general hails from these northern Italian regions, and it is candied fruit with a potent mustard-like syrup. The ‘Mantovana’ version is made from green apple. I encourage you to try if you have not, as it is certainly unique. The ‘salumi’ on offer is also Slow Food recognized. (You can read more about the Slow Food movement in this entry about the Piemonte movement.)

Mantova is also known for the Tortelli di Zucca, supposedly a dish conceived in the year 1500 and connected to the famous patrons of the city, the Gongaza family. Say ‘pumpkin filled pasta’ and I am there, add sage and butter, and I am in heaven. The rendition at Ranari did not disappoint.

*Sbrisolana Mantovana*, the typical dessert from Mantova made with almonds and supposedly never cut with a knife but broken with the hands.

I finished with the Sbrisolana, the famous crumbly dessert topped with a custard cream, native to the city as well. Of course, I drank a local Lambrusco Mantovana. A type of Lambrusco Mantovana is known as ‘Scagarün’ in the local dialect. It has a rather vulgar association, but let’s just say, the darkness of color could be seen in the output as well!

Visit the Casa Del Mantegna and Palazzo Te. I mentioned the Gonzaga family who were the great patrons of the city in the Renaissance era. In fact, thanks to their patronage, Mantova (along with the town Sabbioneta) is recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site for the “Renaissance town planning".

Image of the courtyard in Andrea Mantegna’s house from the ground up

This family was responsible for bringing artists such as Andrea Mantegna and Giulio Romano to the city. The construction on Mantegna’s house began in 1476, and it features an interesting cylindrical courtyard (pictured at right). Palazzo Te was constructed in the 16th century, on the other hand, for Federico II Gonzago, and it features significant frescos painted by Giulio Romano in the Mannerist style.

Stroll around the city to get a feel for more of the important Renaissance architecture. For example, the Palazzo Ducale was the principle residence of the Gonzago family and inside you will find more impressive frescos by Mantegna.

Keep walking by the Castel of Saint George (the defense structure for the family), and for unique views back over the city, stroll across the iconic bridges which span three artificial lakes surrounding the city, namely, Lago Superiore, Lago di Mezzo, and Lago Inferiore.

The statue of Virgil in the *Piazza Virgiliana*

On your way back into the city, wander back through the Piazza Virgiliana, named for the Roman poet Virgil, author of the Aeneid, was born near here in 70 BCE (so before the founding of the Roman Empire).

Stroll back under the portici (archways that line the city center) and pop into the Piazza delle Erbe and the Rotonda di San Lorenzo, the oldest church in the city, constructed in 1082.

The Rotonda di San Lorenzo, the oldest church in the city, impressive from the exterior and interior

Footage of the Piazza delle Erbe and the portici in the city center of Mantova

If you have good walking shoes and feel up for it, Mantova is one of those special cities that you can traverse by foot without having to jump in a motorized vehicle for the duration of your stay.

Of course, there are other ways to experience it, busses and taxis available, should you wish. Any way you choose to move around, I recommend taking the time for Renaissance splendor, sparkling red wine and pumpkin-stuffed pasta in a city that offers an alternative to Lake Como in the Lombardy region.

Regional Feature of Mantova

Introduction to the region: Lombardia