Introduction to the region: Liguria

Attribution: CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=32777

     I remember when my friends suggested going to the Cinque Terre, Liguria in the summer of 2011, and even over 10 years ago, I was unconvinced. I had heard quite a bit of hype about the ‘five lands’ but mostly from American tourists. Our trip was scheduled for August and I envisioned an inundated nightmare of only English speakers crowded into small villages with no escape. I had my eye on Calabria which I romanticized as further off the beaten track. It took me almost 10 years to reach Calabria, as it was the last region I visited.

An iconic view in the Cinque Terre

But back to the Cinque Terre, which is the name given to the group of five villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. First off, I must say, that I was proven wrong (at that time), upon arrival. Even though the iconic coastal towns are small, and you do hear a fair amount of English all around, if you stay a few days, I guarantee that you will be charmed by the experience. It is on so many Italian bucket lists for good reason.  

A more recent bird’s eye view shot from the trail between Monterosso and Vernazza. To reiterate, in September 2022, it was idyllic from above, but not the same experience down below. You have been warned :)

2023 Update: Revisiting the Cinque Terre even in September of 2022 was a different experience. The hike (with more sections of the main trail open than they were in 2011) was still enjoyable with some breathtaking views, on a better camera this time around too. That said, when we descended into the villages (the middle ones especially, Vernazza and Corniglia, in particular) it was almost nightmarish, that is, EXTREMELY overcrowded. The return of tourism has been a constant news story especially in the Summer of 2023, and this was even at the tail end of 2022. I kind of shudder imagining the height of summer 2023. That said, many tourists continue to visit these 5 lands, and continue to have glowing, overwhelmingly positive experiences. My honest advice would be to go if you feel strongly about it; however, perhaps stay, or at least visit, some of the still less populated towns in the same vicinity. I cannot speak more highly about Portovenere, especially if you like Romantic Literature, read more about Cinque Terre alternatives here and here. I have a very good friend and blogger who also loves another less popular area north of the Cinque Terre still in the Liguria region, that is, Levanto. You can read her excellent guide here.

A view down the coast of the Cinque Terre

     Liguria is the rather small crescent-shaped region, underneath Piemonte bordering France, and specifically forming a continuation of the French Riviera; thus, this region has earned the title of ‘Italian Riviera.’ The aesthetic along the coast that extends for the full length of the narrow region is ‘what dreams are made on’ with craggy cliffs and sweeping views from a number of vantage points, where you can admire the long stretches of sea meeting each fishing village perched on high. The beauty is in large part wrapped up in the incredulity. How did these little villages come to be perched on clifftops by the seaside? Why does this aesthetic have such an appeal to us?

Views up the coast from Porto Venere

This combination of fascination and beauty earned the area, including Portovenere and the islands (Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto), UNESCO status in 1997. Prior to doing research for this website, I was not aware that UNESCO designations were given considering the natural landscape of a place. In many cases it is the combination of natural and manmade wonders that earn a place, such as in the case of Cinque Terre. The official UNESCO site provides this rationale: “The Ligurian coast between Cinque Terre and Portovenere is a cultural landscape of great scenic and cultural value. The layout and disposition of the small towns and the shaping of the surrounding landscape, overcoming the disadvantages of a steep, uneven terrain, encapsulate the continuous history of human settlement in this region over the past millennium.”  It further mentions how “the five villages date back to the later middle ages” and you can read more on the official UNESCO site. The villages resemble how they were organized during the middle ages, but the area has been inhabited over the past millennium, as stated in the Encyclopedia Britannica entry. In fact, the region “derives its name from the Ligurians, its pre-Roman inhabitants, came under the domination of Rome in the 1st century BC”.

     I have spoken a lot about Cinque Terre, but the region of Liguria is famous for more than this. For one, the most famous Italian music festival is called Sanremo, and it is named for the northern coastal city in the region of Liguria where the festival has taken place since its inception in 1951. The festival usually takes place in early February. Portofino is another very instagram popular, but also historically visited, praised (and popular with VIPs) tourist destination in the region.

     Finally, the capital of Liguria is Genova, the sixth largest city in Italy, and a fascinating port town that has held historical significance for centuries. In fact, Genova is still considered the busiest and most important port in Italy. The city and surrounding area even formed its own republic, or independent state, between 1005 and 1797. I have yet to visit ‘la Superba’ as Genova is fondly called, but it is on my list and a discussion of the region would not be complete without at least mentioning the capital city, albeit superficially. You might have noticed that I am a chaser of UNESCO world heritage sites, and Le Strade Nuove and the system of the Palazzi dei Rolli in Genova are on the recognized list. These ‘new streets’ and palaces were built and beautified in “the late 16th and early 17th centuries when the Republic of Genoa was at the height of its financial and seafaring power” according to the official UNESCO website.