Two bars in the north of Rome (Flaminio and Ponte Milvio)
Mosto
Address- Viale Pinturicchio 32
Phone- 392 257 9616
Website- https://www.facebook.com/enotecamosto/
Hours- Monday through Sunday, 6:30PM–12AM
Enoteca Mosto
Mosto provides a different bar experience, but a delightful one. This is a great place to come for natural wine in Rome. There are quite a few options to explore the natural wine scene in Rome; I defer to a friend of a friend and blogger. Here is a great starter list curated by her.
The new(ish) MAXXI bookstore; there is an expanded caffe area too, making it feel more ‘MOMA’ or ‘TATE’ like than before
Mosto is located in the Flaminio neighborhood, very near the Ponte Milvio (described in detail in the Da Pallotta entry). You can access the bar easily by taking the number 2 tram from Piazzale Flaminio. If you are interested in what the contemporary art scene in Rome has to offer, you might make a stop by the MAXXI, which could easily be combined with a visit to this oasis of natural wine. The MAXXI is an acronym for Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo (National Museum of 21st Century Arts, hence the creative use of XXI in the title). Neither the permanent collection nor exhibitions have ever wowed me, to be perfectly honest, but the building was designed by the eminent architect Zaha Hadid. Thus, a stroll through the large courtyard to admire the architecture is a must in the neighborhood.
Zaha Hadid’s MAXXI
Another popular venue in the vicinity of Mosto is the Auditorium Parco della Musica, a large music complex that has three concert halls and an outdoor theatre. It was designed by another prominent architect, Renzo Piano. Even though I live in the Flaminio neighborhood, very close to this world renowned complex, I do not perhaps make use of it as much as I could. I did have the opportunity to see The National, one of my very favorite bands, play here in a brilliant concert filled with energy in anticipation of summer many years ago. Thus, the space accommodates varied musical performances, Italian and international, classical to contemporary. Explore the website to find out what is going on during your stay. I will follow my own advice and access the resource more in the upcoming year!
Wonderful food and wine at Mosto
But back to Mosto. The beauty of this place will be in the personal attention granted by the convivial owner, Ciro Borriello. If you have a passion or even interest in natural wine, he (and all the staff) will make you feel right at home. There are many bottles lining the walls on two levels; although the enoteca itself is not too large, understated but tasteful décor. They have a pretty wide list of wines by the glass, all natural, but with variation— bubbles, white, orange, rose and red. If you want to share a bottle, the selection is larger and all around you, as I mentioned. Ciro will happily and unpretentiously guide you to a perfect match. The bar is usually quiet with a positive energy. It is stylish in appearance and ‘hidden’, to a certain extent, as the natural wine movement has not exploded into the mainstream (just yet). Yet, you will also not feel unwelcome here no matter your experience with or exposure to ‘raw’ wines (read this article to break down some of the terminology used).
An interior shot of Enoteca Mosto
Mosto also has the BEST taralli of any bar in Rome. I explain the popular pugliese snack in my Food and Wine post about the region of Puglia, but these, like the wine, taste fresh, like they just came from a bakery. They are integrale (made with whole wheat) and have crunchy black seeds for added flavor. The kind staff also bring some fresh, seasonal surprises (and sometimes olives) as part of the aperitivo included with your glass of wine. However, they also feature a nice menu of antipasti, primi and even secondi. I recently enjoyed a delicious hummus and a watermelon gazpacho, suited to the summer season. Mosto is a bit ‘off the beaten track,’ but I recommend it to see a different side of what Rome has to offer.
Caffe Ponte Milvio
Address- Piazzale Ponte Milvio, 44/45
Phone- +39 06 333 3461
Website- https://www.facebook.com/caffepontemilvio/
Hours- 6 AM to 11 PM Monday through Saturday, 7 AM to 9 PM on Sunday
Happy with Campari Spritz in hand
Here you have the best aperitivo in Rome, in my humble opinion. If you find yourself in the northern neighborhood of Ponte Milvio, definitely make a stop by Caffe Ponte Milvio. We affectionately refer to this local haunt as ‘red tables.’ Indeed, when you approach the establishment you will see many ‘red tables’ grouped together under an awning. In the winter they will be punctuated with heat lamps but no less full of customers. This is one of the most beautiful aspects of the Roman aperitivo—in winter, spring, summer and fall, the tradition lives. Caffe PM is almost always full by the time 6 PM hits; We often go earlier, as this spot has long been a favorite spot for international school teachers. There are multiple international schools up the Via Cassia; therefore, Caffe Ponte Milvio is the perfect stop on a Friday afternoon; a great way to ease into the weekend. The Spritzs at this establishment are presented in large chalices. A Campari spritz is sacred to me, and when I want to celebrate, I want to drink from that PM Caffe chalice.
More happy consumers with the classic Caffe PM spread
For example, when I found out that I had finally received my ‘permanent’ residency card after much bureaucracy and anxiety, I ran (I did literally run) straight to ‘Red Tables’. In addition to the holy Spritz, done just right (read: strong), the snack selection is abundant and varied. I promise you will be delighted by the spread. AND, what’s more, if you see something on another table that you covet, you can politely ask the servers for some of ‘what she is having.’ You will get a selection of nuts, olives, potato chips, bread sticks and dips. But there will also be some special additions such as spicy rice crackers (unassumingly addictive) and peanuts covered in paprika. The dip selections could be salsa, olive tapenade, artichoke or creamy cheese. In addition to these classic ‘snack’ foods, every round of drinks comes with a more substantial selection of pizzette (mini pizzas, both round and square), mini croissant and focaccia sandwiches with prosciutto and mozzarella fillings. It doesn’t end there. Every time you order another drink, the wonderful waiters bring the whole banquet again.
If we have more than two drinks, we even start refusing or asking only for a few select items as not to waste food! You can easily make a meal out of an aperitivo here, and there is something very special about the full table service. Snacks keep coming like manna from heaven, and you never have to interrupt your conversation to go up and get more food like at many (albeit wonderful) aperitivo buffets.
This is a book by its cover place; the plastic red tables and chairs, generic looking bar interior may not scream ‘best aperitivo in Rome’, but just you wait.