Restaurants in Rome- Ristorante 34 and Fiaschetteria Beltramme
General Introduction to Piazza di Spagna
View from the top of the Spanish steps, looking down over the area and the Via Dei Condotti
The two following restaurants can be found very near the Piazza di Spagna. I offer both (two for the price of one, ha) to provide options for your dining experience in this area. Recently, some family friends went to Ristorante 34 on my recommendation and made the observation that there were many tourists. That is true. If you choose a restaurant in the Piazza di Spagna area, you will inevitably dine with ‘many tourists.’ There are other restaurants I recommend in areas that are ‘off the beaten track’ such as Tanto pe Magna in Garbatella and Da Pallotta in Ponte Milvio. But these friends requested a restaurant close to their hotel near Piazza di Spagna; thus, I can guarantee these two choices are the best ones in the immediate vicinity. There are others I would recommend when you move either up or down the Via del Corso away from Piazza di Spagna: Ristorante da Edy, Il Margutta closer to Piazza del Popolo; La Buca di Ripetta on the other side of the Piazza del Popolo. Ginger for a healthy fix straight down the Corso. Colline Emiliane closer to Barberini. Da Gino al Parlamento ( formerly Trattoria dal Cavalier Gino), close to the famous Giolitti for ice cream, en route to Piazza Navona. There are two restaurants that lay claim to the original Fettucine Alfredo; read more in forthcoming post I have titled the “Tale of two Alfredos”.
Ristorante 34 has more space for seating, inside and outside, therefore, you could probably get away with not making a reservation here (though I always recommend doing it to be safe). Fiaschetteria Beltramme is much smaller, so I would definitely recommend a reservation. Again, you will hear some English spoken in both restaurants, by virtue of the location.
A virtually empty Piazza di Spagna in July 2020
To give some historical background, the Piazza di Spagna area has long been the historical area of Rome to ‘hear English’ and other foreign languages. This started when British and other European travelers visited and, in some cases, established themselves abroad. The popular name given to this phenomenon is ‘The Grand Tour’ which was the classical tour of Western Europe first made by young, British, aristocratic men, peaking in the late 18th century. Thus, Rome had been an important ‘spot’ since the Grand Tour tradition began for young gentlemen, written about as early as 1670. This information is taken from Voyage of Italy, a 1670 text often regarded as an early manifesto of The Gentlemen’s Classical Tour by Richard Lassels. Full Citation: Richard Lassels. ‘A preface to the Reader Concerning Travelling’, An Italian Voyage, or, a Compleat Journey Through Italy. 2nd Ed. (London: Richard Wellington, 1698), 7.
The Spanish Steps with spring showers and flowers all at once
However, the year 1815 is important in understanding what became of this tradition and the later development of an expatriate culture in Rome. This is the year the Napoleonic wars ended with the Battle of Waterloo. The European continent was open to tourism again and now the demographic profile of people travelling to continental Europe for leisure expanded! Thus, many historians, including James Buzard whom I mentioned in the About section, trace the beginnings of modern tourism to this date, 1815. The travel experience that had originally been reserved for a homogenous group—young, aristocratic men with their governors— was broadening. Rome remained one of the most significant cities to visit and throughout the 19th century, more and more visitors decided to extend their stays. The Piazza di Spagna area was where they sought accommodations. I will provide more information on the most significant establishments in the spots section (Keats-Shelley House ). Another symbolic spot is to the left of the Spanish steps if you are facing them from the bottom (looking up at the Trinità dei Monti) is the Babington Tea Rooms. The tea rooms were established in 1893, just at the point, I would argue, that the expatriate area of room was solidly established. Read more of the history on their website. In the 20th century, the Piazza Di Spagna also became the upscale shopping area, still heavily catering to foreign visitors. Think of a popular luxury brand name and you will find it here—Versace, Louis Vuitton, Armani, Bulgari, Chanel, Christian Dior, Dolce e Gabbana, Fendi, Gucci, Hermes, Jimmy Choo, Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, and not only. Find descriptions and addresses here.
In addition to the street literally called ‘Piazza di Spagna’ take a stroll through the surrounding streets, the Via Condotti and Via Borgognona to shop or window shop, depending on means. Expect crowds, but hopefully with knowing some of the history, you can embrace the foreign crowds, in some capacity.
Ristorante 34—Restaurant Specifics
Address- Via Mario de' Fiori, 34,
Phone- +39 06 679 5091
Hours- Open every day for lunch and dinner, except on Monday which is only dinner.
Price- Middle Range
Reservations- By phone or website
The restaurant was opened in 1968, and you will find heterogeneous yet charming decorations on the inside. Specifically, there is a carnivalesque aesthetic with porcelain figures wearing Venetian masks and many framed, yet varied, pieces of artwork, some featuring clowns, throughout two main dining rooms. In fact, even the menus showcase the memorable rendition of The Kiss by Gustav Klimt and pre-Raphaelite paintings can be found throughout both the Italian and English versions of the menu. The restaurant has been a popular choice for Roman families for decades, especially for a Sunday lunch or holiday. As mentioned in the introduction to this section, this is also a popular choice for tourists given the location, but there are both sides, the established Roman families and the tourists passing by. Local families come and are greeted by waiters that have served them for decades in many cases. The restaurant is proudly owned by original Casalini family, and they still make themselves visible. If you read reviews on Google and Trip Advisor, you will find some extremely positive comments about the family and the waiters from first time visitors as well. One popular vlog that features Ristorante 34 is by Euro Trotter’s Mark Felice. In Part 1 of What To Eat in Rome, he features Ristorante 34 (in Italian the numbers are trentaquattro); the segment on 34 starts at 10.51, and Mark recommends the ‘baked gnocchi.’ Many tourists commented on the suggestion in Tripadvisor reviews, some positive, some negative. I will say, I have always considered 34 one of my go-to seafood restaurants in Rome, although the menu also boasts all the Roman classics. Our favorite is the ‘crab pasta.’ (Officially, it is the Tonnarelli al granciporro e ciliegine di pachino.) This is a rather unique dish within the city of Rome; you will not find it frequently, but it is exceptional at this restaurant!
Recommended Dishes
Antipasto- Pescespada affumicato con avocado, pomodori e lampascioni
Primo- Tonnarelli al granciporro e ciliegine di pachino
Secondo-Any grilled fish you fancy; I also enjoyed the calamari alla griglia
Rather unique to this restaurant are piatti di mezzo (half portions)- the Scamorza e radicchio alla griglia is incredible! Radicchio has a very bitter flavor, if you are unfamiliar, but with a smoky flavor from the grill paired with creamy cow’s milk scamorza cheese that cuts through the bitterness of the radicchio; it is a delicious combo!
Dolci- The tiramisu is quite good here, but Pompi is dangerously close by.
Fiaschetteria Beltramme—Restaurant specifics
Address- Via della Croce, 39
Phone- +39 06 6979 7200
Hours- Open every day for lunch and dinner.
Price- Middle Range
Reservations- By phone, as they do not have an official website
The Fiaschetteria has its own interesting history related to the expatriate culture of the area. The restaurant (I say ‘restaurant’ with some hesitation and in a very general sense because fiaschetteria is an older variation on ‘restaurant’. Read more about the origin here. The quick version is that the ‘fiaschetteria’ was originally a wine shop as a ‘fiasca’ means ‘jug’ commonly used to store wine. The Fiaschetteria Beltramme dates back to 1886. Thus, the restaurant fits into the story of foreign travelers to Rome. Specifically, the famous guests that gathered and stayed in the Piazza di Spagna were artistic and intellectual types. The expatriate culture has been promoted because there were writers and philosophers among them. Those famous for dining at this restaurant are the 20th century guests, such as my favorite film maker Federico Fellini and, coincidentally, a favorite painter, Giorgio De Chirico, who lived in the neighborhood at 31 Piazza di Spagna; you can visit his former house which now serves as a museum. Also, the Italian writer Alberto Moravia and controversial film maker Pier Paolo Pasolini would dine here. You can see homages through the pictures and drawings they created that are now hanging on the restaurant walls.
Fiaschetteria Beltramme
The quality of food is excellent here and the selection is quite vast. My carnivorous friends (I often write about them, ha) shared a large bistecca and raved about it. There is an ample selection of primi and secondi. Pastas on offer are both Roman (read: carbonara, amatriciana, gricia and cacio e pepe) and more creative choices, especially daily specials such as a ravioli with burrata, fresh tomato and basil or tonnarelli carciofi guanciale e pecorino (artichoke, pork cheek and pecorino cheese).
Recommended Dishes
Antipasto- Melanzane alla Parmigiana or skip it in order to enjoy both a primo and secondo
Primo-Tonarelli alla Corsara or a Roman Pasta of choice (Amatriciana, Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe or Gricia)
Secondo-I enjoyed the polpette, but in my experience, every secondo is very tasty, so go with your tastes :)
Dolci- Again, when in the neighborhood, why not head to Pompi for Tiramisu.