Restaurant in Rome- Checchino dal 1887
General Introduction to Testaccio
Cacio e Pepe at Felice
I will start by providing some background on the neighborhood. Testaccio is a special rione (neighborhood), especially around aperitivo and mealtimes. I might have chosen a number of truly laudable restaurants to highlight: Flavio Al Velavevodetto, Agustarello and Felice a Testaccio are all excellent.
For a classic Roman pizza in the neighborhood go to Da Remo (more foodie tourists now as it is cited on blogs a lot) or Nuovo Mondo (more Romans, less press). For lunch, however, a solid option is the Nuovo Mercato Comunale di Testaccio. Some Romans lamented when the original Testaccio market was moved to its current location in 2012. You will now find the bright and open market housed in a contemporary building on Via Galvani and Via Benjamin Franklin, very near the Mattatoio di Testaccio, (find out more here ) and the restaurant Checchino dal 1887, my featured restaurant. Originally the market was located in the Piazza Testaccio, formerly known as Piazza Mastro Giorgio. There was a fountain with anfore (Greek and Roman jars often used for storing liquid such as wine or oil, more on the importance of the anfore in Testaccio here), but it was moved when the original Testaccio market was inaugurated in 1935. This piazza remained the market headquarters until 2012. Something was lost, no doubt; the new market space is white and bright. The market stalls are neatly numbered by ‘box’; fonts and colors are fun and you can find cold pressed juices and salads at Zoe (box 59) if you are looking for some variety. Sano Burger (Box 3) has vegan burgers and smoothies on offer as well. For a bit more traditional, I would grab at least one dish to share from Le Mani in Pasta (Box 58). The original location of this restaurant (still there!) is in my favorite part of Trastevere and just around the corner from Roma Sparita. Still, I think the Testaccio market is a great place to get a taste of this risto, known for having the freshest pasta. Another favorite for meat lovers in the market for Roman panini is Mordi e Vai (Box 15).
As mentioned briefly, the mattatoio is just across the street from the new market. Until quite recently, the complex was called the ex-Mattatoio; Mattatoio in Italian means ‘slaughterhouse’ and, in fact, the complex was a large functioning slaughterhouse from 1888-1975. The museum is still connected to the MACRO (Museum of Contemporary Arts, Rome) but has been given more autonomy, as I understand, and instead of the former (ex) mattatoio is embracing the past even more explicitly and is now going by simply Mattatoio. I must admit I have never invested much in the exhibitions on, but have enjoyed walking through vast areas and experiencing the repurposed space. After a wander through (and you might feel like you are not on the right track, but don’t worry, you are) you will come to a wide-open space out back. There is a multipurpose complex described as an “event, education & retail space promoting fair trade & organic products with a restaurant & library.” I have attended some fun beer festivals in the fall and spring, but year-round, I enjoy stopping in for an aperitivo before heading to Checchino, or any of the other incredible Testaccio restaurants.
Why are restaurants in Testaccio particularly good and particularly Roman? The answer is in the offal. As explained, the slaughterhouse was a key feature of the Testaccio neighborhood, while it was in operation. It is heavily connected to the popular phrase used to describe the meats most often used in Roman cooking, that is, the quinto quarto. This literally means ‘the fifth fourth or quarter,’ and the story goes, within the slaughterhouse context, the best cuts of meat, the ‘first quarter’ of the animal would go to the nobles, the second quarter to the clergy, the third to bourgeoisie and the final quarter to the soldiers. Even after the four fourths had been sold, however, there was about the weight of another ‘quarter’ in the undesirable and leftover parts of the animal, the offal. Thus, the ‘fifth quarter’ was born, and it remains a point of pride in Roman cooking. The offal such as pajata (intestines of young goat lamb or veal) coratella (heart, lung and esophagus of lamb or young goat) and testarelle (head) were given as partial payment to workers in the slaughterhouse. Thus, the heart (or coratella if you will) of Roman cooking was established here in Testaccio with the importance of the Mattatoio. It is a fascinating neighborhood to visit as the Mattatoio still commands such importance. However, if you are not feeling so adventurous, in addition to the quinto quarto, the standard Roman pastas (the holy four) and all Roman cuisine is going to be killer in this area. It is truly the birthplace.
Restaurant Specifics
Address- Via di Monte Testaccio, 30
Phone- +39 06 574 3816
Website- https://www.checchino-dal-1887.com/
Hours- Open every week day for lunch and dinner; closed on Monday and open only for Sunday lunch
Price- Middle range
Reservations- You can book through their website or by phone
The restaurant Checchino dal 1887 is located just across the Mattatoio and has a shared history. Now onto fifth generation family owners, Checchino truly celebrates the quinto quatro legacy, and if you are interested in trying some offal-inspired cuisine, I will tell you, this must be the place. Checchino even features a ‘historical tasting menu’ that lets you try all of the Roman classics. Starting with the insalata di zampi (trotter salad), a primo of rigatoni con pajata (intestines), the famous coda alla vaccinara (oxtail) and a torta di ricotta (chocolate and ricotta cake) for dessert. If you feel like going all out (when in Rome etc etc) go for the full selection. Do not miss the coda alla vaccinara, however. Just as it would be sacreligious not to order the cacio e pepe at Roma Sparita, the same goes for the coda alla vaccinara at Checchino. However, you can have it as a primo or secondo. The second course, as mentioned above, is the full oxtail; you are presented the bone. I often prefer the Rigatoni al sugo di coda alla vaccinara for a first course, as you get some of the oxtail in a delicious red pasta sauce, and it is less work; the pieces of oxtail are ready to be consumed with the pasta.
Recommended Dishes
Antipasti- Bruschetta al pecorino profumata alla salvia servita con bicchiere di Cannellino di Frascati (vino bianco demisec) or the Antipasto Misto to taste a variety
Primo- Rigatoni al sugo di coda alla vaccinara or Bucatini all' Amatriciana
Famed Coda alla Vaccinara
Secondo- Coda alla vaccinara (Don’t order the coda for both a first and a second, but you must order it for at least one!) or Abbacchio alla cacciatora or Scaloppa Checchino
Dolci- They do a very cool thing in that many of the desserts are served with a glass of wine or a spirit that pairs well. They also have many desserts without this option, but I would recommend the Tortino di pere e noci, salsa al cioccolato e calice di Stillato