Regional Feature-Sperlonga
First, a disclaimer. It is pretty much a ‘truth universally acknowledged’ and if not ‘universally’, at least “acknowledged” by Italians that the further down the coast you go, the more beautiful the beaches get. Within the region of Lazio, Sperlonga wins the beauty contest in my opinion (shared with many). There is a stretch of coastline below Rome that starts with Sabaudia, followed by San Felice Circeo, then Terracina, Sperlonga, ending with Gaeta. All of these beaches have beauty and character. I will discuss Sperlonga, but I felt duty bound to mention these other spots, as they all are worth visiting.
A statue of the Emperor Nero in Anzio at sunset
Even closer to Rome (but still on the southern coast) you will find Anzio. If you do not want to travel more than an hour, Anzio is my choice. You can get there by train in 52 minutes or by car in just over an hour, and it has interesting historic value. The emperor Nero was born in Anzio (‘Antium’ in his time), and as Emperor, he had a great villa built which later emperors continued to make use of. You can sunbathe AND visit the ruins of a Roman Emperor’s villa; what could be better.
Well, I will tell you the water is, in fact, even clearer in Sperlonga than Anzio (that is why it is my official choice). And, Sperlonga is home to an even older Emperor’s villa. The emperor Tiberius, second Emperor only after Augustus, took over an existing Republican villa and made it his own. Now you can visit the museum that stands on the spot holds some of the massive sculptures that were found there. Read more here. It takes just under 2 hours to reach Sperlonga by car. Thus, if you want to do a day trip, it is feasible, but you will want to leave quite early to make the most of your time. By train, you can travel to the Fondi-Sperlonga stop which takes 1 hour and 13 minutes. From there you can take a bus or splurge on a private taxi, which is only about a 10-minute drive. The bus is certainly cheaper, but you need to time your arrival correctly, and at peak times, it is very crowded. I have the contact of a very nice driver, his name is Gianluca. Feel free to contact me if you would like his personal number!
The clear waters on the beach of Sperlonga
Relax on the beach. Sperlonga’s waters have been perennially awarded the Bandiera blu d’Europa (the Blue Flag of Europe) which means they meet strict criteria in terms of quality and cleanliness. Find out more information, including which other beaches around the world qualify. It is nice to know that Sperlonga is able to maintain the beaches year after year, but you will see for yourselves as crystalline waters will greet you upon arrival.
Now, deciding where to settle on the beach in Sperlonga is another decision. You can arrive in the picturesque town, overlooking the beach (as pictured in the cover photo), and walk down the stairs to one of the many lidi (beach clubs) where you can rent lounge chairs or sun beds, use the facilities and have a snack bar (sometimes a restaurant close at hand). There is also a spiagga libera (free beach) in between these beach clubs, which, as you can imagine, is open to anyone free of charge. In peak season, you need to arrive very early to get a prime spot.
The Villa di Tiberio in Sperlonga
From this spot, the free beach or one of the lidi around it, you can walk down the beach to the Villa di Tiberio (Tiberius’ villa) in less than 15 minutes. Tiberius was the second emperor of Rome after Augustus; he reigned from 14 CE to 37 CE, and if you want to find out more about his life as Roman Emperor, I recommend Ten Caesars by Barry Strauss. The evocative ruins in the grotta (grotto in English) are fascinating to explore and imagine the visitors of the 1st century CE looking out at the same immortal sea.
Lido Chimera at Sperlonga
Further down the beach, however, there is a hidden gem of a lido. It is best to drive here, or have Gianluca, the private taxi driver I mentioned, take you. (P.S. this recommendation is not for profit of any kind. I just found him pleasant and offering a convenient service!) At any lido, you run a risk that all the beds will be reserved. This is because some people have a season long reservation for a sun bed. You can always try to call or reserve online in advance. Now, this special, somewhat hidden, lido is called Lido Chimera. A ‘chimera’ can be defined as ‘a thing that is hoped or wished for but in fact is illusory or impossible to achieve’ but here everything was achieved. A good lido is one where you want to stay the entire day and get your sun bed money’s worth.
In my 20s, I primarily frequented the free beaches, not really seeing the benefit in paying for the lettino. In my 30s, I want the comfort, and I do not want the sand all over me. Some of the issue, if I am honest, is that I had not understood how to navigate the process of renting the bed at an Italian lido. If you happen to be in the same boat, here is a quick rundown. Usually when you approach a Lido (beach club), there is a booth where you can pay. Here you can request a lettino (sunbed) or sdraio (beach chair) with or without an ombrellone (beach umbrella), you pay there and then sometimes an attendant takes you, with the receipt, to one of the lettini. You can request a different one, if you do not like where they place you. Sometimes, there is no attendant and you go to find a place on your own. If the lido has a full-service restaurant, you might want to also ‘book’ a table ahead of time. Then, you have the morning to sunbathe, swim and when you are ready, go back up to the restaurant for lunch. I feel comfortable leaving my things without much monetary value on my bed (my towel, book, water bottle). Go up for a nice lunch, then return for more relaxing in the afternoon. You might finish up at sunset and have an aperitivo at the restaurant before heading out. This is the way to make good use of paying the price for a sun bed and umbrella, in my opinion.
Lido Chimera is a wonderful choice at Sperlonga. It is not overly crowded; the restaurant is good with fresh fish and calamari, but nothing fancy. You will feel a complete sense of relaxation. There are also Lidi on the north side of the town of Sperlonga. I must say that I have not visited any of these. Many people prefer the south because of the picturesque rocks and grotte that you can see jutting out into the sea.
Sperlonga at sunset
Visit the town and stay for sunset. Even if you do decide to go further down the coast and straight to Lido Chimera, plan another trip back to explore the town. Or, spend the whole day at the lido and then go into the town for dinner. You will see the Torre Truglia out on the tip of the promontory jutting into the see. You can access this spot via a path from town or stairs from the beach. A defensive tower has supposedly been in this spot since Roman times; however, it has been rebuilt many times over through the centuries. Find out more here. The tower is a perfect place to snap some pictures of the Tyrrhenian Sea in all directions.
After your photo-op, move into the streets of the old town. Exploring Sperlonga is truly a special experience. More than anywhere else in Italy, I felt like I was in a Greek island town, specifically in the Cycladic islands. Shades of blue and white predominate. I just remember this profound sensation of feeling like I was in Greece. Spend some time wandering through the narrow streets and alleyways; you will be surprised by beauty at every turn; for example, fuchsia colored flowers climbing a whitewashed wall, stone streets and archways, blue doors and flowerpots abound. Meander through the town ready for dinner.
Eat at Ristorante La Siesta. The restaurant is tucked away in a scenic piazzetta (little piazza) and the atmosphere is just perfect for a fresh seafood dinner after a long day by the sea.
The restaurant is on Via Orticello I, 15
The phone number is (+39) 0771 548617.
The reviews for La Siesta are more mixed than I would expect based on my experience (albeit a few years ago). Thus, I recommend with caution here, as I remember good food and a better atmosphere. Still, you can explore other recommended Sperlonga restaurants here; although the website is in Italian, you can take the names and Google them if you are interested in more eating options! Fortunately, Sperlonga is still predominantly a destination for Italian visitors, not as widely visited by American tourists as Sorrento or Amalfi, but with the same, if not greater charm. For this reason, there are not too many restaurant lists in English. Read another article in Town and Country Magazine that speaks to the not yet oversaturated charm of Sperlonga.
The view of the Torre Truglia from L’angolo restaurant
For an alternative restaurant, down on the beach just under the town perched on high, I enthusiastically recommend L’angolo. I was recently taken by my friend Shelley. (The restaurant was recommended by another friend Rachel, and they went together a few weeks before.)
The food and views are equally impressive. We shared a delicious tuna tartare and I had one of the best seafood pastas (called allo scoglio) with fresh pasta; I salivate just thinking about it.
The restaurant is on Via Tiberio, 04029
The phone number is (+39) 0771548808
Delicious fresh seafood pasta