Regional Feature-Ostia Antica
Ostia Antica is not a place to swim; although you can pair a visit with a trip to the contemporary Ostia beach. Romans joke that it is not the most beautiful beach, but it is still embraced warmly, especially by those from Roma Sud (south Rome). If you want to visit the beach as well, I would recommend taking the train (it resembles more of a tram), the Roma Lido line, from Piramide, at the Porta S. Paola station. Ostia Antica is a stop along the way, and if you want to combine this historical jaunt with a cheeky beach trip, get back on the same line and go three more stops to Stella Polare. Exit here and walk to the lido called Il Defino, a quick walk down to the beach from the station. The price of a ticket for this mode of transportation is the same as a metro ticket (1.50 euro); in fact, the ticket is literally a Roman metro ticket.
One of the informational panel at Ostia Antica
Ostia Antica (Ancient Ostia) is now the archeological site dedicated to the ancient seaport of Rome. According to the new and improved didactic panels that you will find throughout the site, “the earliest remains belong to the fortified settlement (castrum) of the 4th century BC Roman colony.” See the picture of the panels, and while on site, take the time to read them thoroughly.
Upon leaving the train station, you will see this bridge; you need to walk across it to reach the site
Explore the site. To get an overview of what you will see, first watch this video created with support from the region of Lazio. You can easily walk to the site entrance from the train station. You need to cross over a bridge, but you will find signs directing you.
In 2018, a new ticket office was constructed, and the price of a ticket has increased to 12 euros. According to the site’s official website: “This military camp, called Ostia from the Latin word Ostium meaning "mouth of the river", was established at a distance of around 16 miles from Rome.” The site is quite large (over 2 kms of walking if you want to see it all), so if you are visiting on a summer day, be sure to bring water with you. You can follow a map, if you want to be sure to cover everything, or wander and take it all in as it comes. Again, take time to read the didactic panels stationed in front of important landmarks throughout the park to help educate and orient yourself.
Here I am with the mosiac floors behind me on a trip in August 2020
Initially, do not miss the mosaic floors in the Therme.
Other highlights are the 2nd century CE theatre which could accommodate up to 4,000 spectators and was used for gladiator fights, the mithrae, temples, dedicated to the god Mithras, and finally the museum. The museum, which is located on the far end of the site, houses sculptures and artifacts that cannot be left outside and exposed to the elements. Explore in more detail here. When I visited in August 2020, the museum was closed for renovation. I asked the staff when it will reopen, and they were hopeful that it will be in a few months. (I am going to avoid a pessimistic remark about Italian promises about times and reopening…) Rather, I will update the post as new information is available.
The 2nd century CE theatre at Ostia Antica
After concluding your visit to the site…
Castle of Julius II
Visit the little hamlet beyond the archeological site as well, including the Castello di Giulio II (Castle of Julius II). This castle was built between 1483 and 1486 and commissioned by Cardinal Giuliano della Rovere, the future Pope Julius II. The little borgo (village or hamlet) surrounding was created even earlier in the 9th century CE by another Pope, Pope Gregory IV. After exploring the ancient port of Rome, you can move forward in time about 12 centuries and explore the medieval and the Renaissance treasures in the area.
The interior of the Basilica of Santa Aurea
Although the walled ‘town’ is tiny, there are sleepy picturesque streets and a charming church called the Basilica of Santa Aurea, completed in 1483. I had one of those magical (or spiritual) experiences (take your pick depending on your beliefs) upon stepping into this intimate sanctuary on my recent trip. The space was empty and soundless. Self reflection is inevitable (to be honest I am never at a loss for self reflection and self criticism), but these ‘spiritual moments’ are memorable. They remind us of the purpose religion serves. Not the pessimistic ‘opiate’ that dear Marx claimed, but the spiritual side of humanity that cannot be starved, should not be neglected, yet can (and should, in my opinion) take many forms.
The entrance to Allo Sbarco di Enea.
Eat spaghetti alla vongole at Allo Sbarco di Enea. I am a creature of habit, and I had a delightful meal on a day trip here many years ago. I ordered the spaghetti alla vongole (Spaghetti with clams); this dish is always simple but flavorful with just enough garlic, parsley and olive oil to accompany the fresh clams and al dente pasta , a classic Italian seafood dish. I remember it being the perfect fuel, seated under a canopy, surrounded by greenery and fragments of Roman statues in a rustic enclosed courtyard, before exploring the archeological site on a beautiful spring afternoon. That said, I see that the Google rating for the restaurant has dropped to 3.8 out of 5.
The signature Spaghettoni dish at Il Ristorante Monumento dal 1884.
This ‘fall’ from Google grace is disappointing, even though I can vouch for the vongole, I will give an alternative restaurant with better reviews that I tried on my recent trip, specifically, Il Ristorante Monumento dal 1884. It is located closer to the medieval borgo (village) and castle, just outside of the walls. Monumento has 4.4 out of 5 stars on the Google reviews, and I found that it lived up to expectations. I sat at a shady table outside, facing the entrance to the borgo. The 4 euro house white was a crisp vermentino (always one of my favorites), and the waiter recommended the namesake ‘Spaghettoni acqua e farina alla "monumento" (calamari, cozze, vongole e gamberi)’. It was the right choice. Not light on the garlic per se, but the combination of deshelled shrimp, mussels, clams and calamari in perceptively fresh pasta was exquisite. I had to indulge in a bit of the scarpetta, that is, using the bread to ‘sop up’ and enjoy more of the parsley, garlic and oily sauce in the bottom of the bowl.