Regional Feature- Cerveteri and Tarquinia

Cerveteri (the modern name for ancient Etruscan city-state of Caere) is an excellent companion day trip after visiting the Villa Giulia Etruscan Museum in Rome. Throughout this website, you will notice many mentions of the Etruscan civilization. Often, I refer to it as ‘Pre-Roman’ as this rather advanced civilization did exist before the founding of Rome by Romulus (dated to April 21st 753 BCE). Etruscan civilization prospered between the 8th century BCE and 3rd century BCE; thus, they continued to coexist with the Romans for centuries, until this large civilization like many others were ultimately absorbed into the Roman Republic and later the Roman Empire that dominated most of Europe, Asia minor and northern Africa for centuries and lasted into the common era (CE). If you would like to read more specific information on the Etruscan civilization, explore the well-organized entry on the Ancient History Encyclopedia . Geographically, the civilization was concentrated in the areas of Tuscany, western Umbria and northern Lazio. In northern Lazio, the towns most associated with the Etruscan legacy and culture are Cerveteri and Tarquinia. In fact, the two cities are linked together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, an honor that was granted to them in 2004.

Cerveteri is closer to Rome than Tarquinia, and when I visited the necropolis near Cerveteri, known as Banditaccia, in 2018, I was absolutely astonished. (See the end of this post for an update on a visit to Tarquinia in 2023, however.)

Etruscan tombs of Cerveteri

In Cerveteri, walking around the site with “thousands of tombs organized in a city-like plan, with streets, small squares and neighbourhoods” as described by the UNESCO website was unlike any experience I have ever had. The weight of history that stretches back before the founding of Rome is heavy in the air when you walk amongst the alien but ancient sepulchers that rise from the ground like mossy mounds, ironically sprouting greenery and vital organic plant life.

Driving to Cerveteri from Rome takes about 50 minutes. By train, you will go to Ladispoli-Cerveteri, and then need to take a local bus (about 10 minutes) into Cerveteri. Alternatively, you can take a COTRAL bus directly from Rome to the old town. I recommend a delicious restaurant to eat at and a walk around before hitting the archeological site, which is located about 2 km outside of the town center. You can drive or taxi there in an easy 5 minutes or walk about 25 minutes to the site.

Bronze wild boar statue in the city center of Cerveteri

Pose with an unusual statue of a wild boar (cinghiale) in the center of Cerveteri town. This bronze boar is a striking contemporary and culinary salute; it is, in fact, intended to honor a delicious staple of regional cuisine.

Because Cerveteri is located in northern Lazio, not too far from the border with Tuscany directly above and Umbria to the right, the regional cuisine has similarities (I expand on these cuisines here). The statue rests under old city walls, and there is more to explore in the town before heading to a delicious lunch and then to the Etruscan tombs. You will see an impressive Rocca (castle) nearby, but to be honest, it is hard to find too much information on it. Here it is cited as medieval in origin, but the appearance you see today is not original. The Rocca is located within the complex called the Principi Ruspoli Palace. This historic residence originated in the 16th century and was built for an aristocratic family, the Ruspoli, of which two contemporary princesses still live in the palace today. Interestingly, you will find that the family rents space in their historic home to “corporate events and congresses, cultural events, private events, weddings, restaurants, cinematic sets,” according to their website. Here is more of the history on another website to see availability and stay in the lavish residence; the family has certainly embraced the earning potential of their over 400-year-old property. According to this website, Pope Innocent the VIII stayed here while hunting wild boar, which further explains the presence of the aforementioned statue.

Eat delicious cinghiale and/or other regional dishes at the charming local restaurant called Aria-Osteria di Fuori Porta. You will find cinghiale prepared in multiple ways with attention to aesthetics; with some creative twists on regional classics as well, such as Lasagne cacio e pepe or tonnarelli con (with) pomodorini (small tomato) confit, burrata e salsa di basilico (basil sauce).

Find out more by exploring their website; you can book a table on here too!

Amongst the tombs at the Necropolis of the Banditaccia

Visit the Necropolis of the Banditaccia after a nice satisfying meal with energy to walk amongst and in these archaic tombs. According to the UNESCO website, this archeological site “provide[s] the only surviving evidence of Etruscan residential architecture” which, of course, is a very powerful claim. The experience of visiting this Necropolis feels very active and interactive.

The interior of the Tomb of the Reliefs

As I mentioned earlier, you are walking amongst and on top of the tombs in some cases, and then descending down narrow stairwells into their depths. Hence, to fully experience the site does require quite advanced mobility. Although viewing the tombs from ground level would still be accessible in a wheelchair, I believe. You will find informed guides waiting for you in some of the tumuli (ancient burial mounds). This added element of interaction certainly enhanced the experience for me. There are also digital videos that flash on the walls and illuminate them with reconstructed versions of what they looked like over 2500 years ago. Some highlights include the Tomb of Regolini-Galassi with rich gold finds from the mid-7th century BCE . In fact, the huge mound shaped tombs, the so-called tumuli, are the oldest ones. According to the website Ancient Origins, “Some of these burial mounds were used by the same family over several generations;” yet, some mounds are bigger than others, suggesting that Etruscan society at this time was also hierarchical. (Mo money, bigger tomb.) The Tomb of the Reliefs has been dated to the 4th century BCE, but what strikes you upon descending into this otherworldly space is the abundance of color. Vibrant stucco reliefs adorn the walls, and the interior resembles, what scholars believe, represent a domestic Etruscan space, not only for the dead, but for the living during their day.

There are many more not to be missed tombs; they are identified on the exterior, so I encourage you to walk through the ‘city of the dead’; exploring will make you feel alive.

Update, March 2023:

Beautiful view from the Necropolis site with the ancient city of Tarquinia behind me

The Tomb of the Leopards, Tarquinia (One of the more detailed and vibrant tombs on display.)

I finally visited Tarquinia, which is the companion city to Cerveteri in the UNESCO World Heritage site listing. I must say, it is also an incredible experience, and truly serves as a worthy accompaniment. I would still recommend visiting Cerveteri first, as this site gives you more immersive experience as previously explained. You are walking ‘amongst’ the tombs in an Etruscan style Necropolis. Giant tombs loom around you, and you can get lost in the atmosphere of the city of the dead. In Tarquinia, on the other hand, there are a greater number of accessible painted tombs. In fact, there are about twenty painted tombs across the historical site. You walk from tomb to tomb and need to descend each by staircase. Once you reach the bottom of about 20 steps per tomb, there is a light to illuminate the painted walls of each tomb housed behind a panel of glass. What is illuminated in the Tomb of the Leopards (pictured at right) was described by D.H. Lawrence as “a dance of real delight” in the 1920s. Of course this hundred years since Lawrence visited is small change in that most of these tombs were painted between the 6th and 3rd centuries B.C. There is an informative panel outside of each tomb, and the painted walls are complete to varying degrees. Each time you descend is a journey of discovery, although unfortunately, only a few of the tombs are accessible to people who use a wheelchair. On the site of the Necropolis, called Monterozzi-Calvario, you can also gaze across at the ancient city of Tarquinia. As you can see in the picture above, the sweeping views of the countryside behind are impressive, and there is a ramp to the Tomb of the Pulcella, increasing accessibility to more visitors.

The modern city (which is located closer to the Necropolis) was renamed Tarquinia in 1922 after being called Corneto in the Medieval and Renaissance eras. If you pass through the modern town, you might stop at the Tarquinia National Museum housed in one of the Renaissance buildings, namely the Palazzo Vitelleschi.

Inside the Tomb of the Demoni Azzurri