Historical Cafes and Contemporary Bars in Trieste
It is estimated that 100 cafes were registered in Trieste in the year 1830. As Trieste was a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire ruled by the Habsburgs for about 400 years, the ‘cafe culture’ so praised in cities such as Vienna exerts a powerful influence here in Trieste as well. Not all, or even most, have survived, but there are some treasures to behold during your stay. Caffe Tommaseo, for example, is notable for being the oldest caffe in Trieste, founded in 1825. This shows that the explosion of 19th century cafe culture took place rather rapidly. The interior decoration will quickly transport you to this chic and bygone era. A native poet, Italo Svevo, who attained fame with the help of James Joyce used to write at this elegant cafe located just inland from the Molo Audace (Audace pier) in the port area. This article provides information on most of the cafes in the city, although I have featured my favorites below.
Caffe Degli Specchi
Address- Piazza Unità d'Italia, 7
Phone- +39 040 661973
Hours- Every day from 8AM-12AM
Breakfast at Caffe Degli Specchi
This historical cafe is located in the heart of the Piazza Unità d'Italia, at number 7. It was founded in 1839, and since its inception has been considered ‘Trieste’s front parlor.’ James Joyce famously spent time here, and it remained an important meeting spot for VIPS through the 20th century. After World War 2, for example, Caffe Degli Specchi became the headquarters of the British Navy. Today you can still experience a high quality coffee and decadent chocolate or pastry to pair with it at standing at the bar.
The interior of Caffe Degli Specchi
Otherwise, for more of a monetary investment, relax at an elegant inside table surrounded by the specchi (mirrors) in the namesake, or opt for a table overlooking the grand piazza, the largest seafront piazza in Europe.
Antico Caffe San Marco
Address- Via Cesare Battisti, 18
Phone- +39 040 064 1724
Hours- Tuesday-Thursday from 8.30AM-11PM, Friday-Saturday from 8.30AM-12AM, Sunday 9AM-10PM and closed Monday
Breakfast at Antico Caffe San Marco
This was probably my favorite cafe in Trieste, even though it is not as old as the previous two I have mentioned. Established in 1914 and furnished in Art Deco style, elegance surrounds you upon stepping inside, and I felt like it was the most ‘authentic’ and immersive experience. I could picture the ‘Irredentisti’ who were writers, artists and political activists invested in the cause of Italian Irredentism, which aspired to have Trieste rejoin Italy, because at this time, and until the end of World War 1, it was a part of the Austrian Empire. Oh the irony, that this beautiful cafe culture exists because of the shared Austro-Hungarian heritage, but the culture is related to the desire to be free of it. And so it goes.
Bookstore part of Caffe San Marco
This historical caffe also happens to be connected to a bookstore, which is always a plus for me. I blissfully browsed and purchased a book on related to teaching Dario Fo’s Accidental Death of an Anarchist after a delightful Italian breakfast.
Contemporary Bars and Cafes
In addition to historical cafes, Trieste is also full of lively contemporary cafes for an aperitivo before dinner and a nightcap after. Via Torino, for example, is filled with bars and filled with people before and after dinnertime. We followed the advice from The New York Times ‘36 Hours’ article and had a nightcap at Mor Cocktail . The decor was eclectic as promised and the creative artisanal cocktails were quaffable! These two bars (below) also impressed!
Knulp
Address- Via della Madonna del Mare, 7a
Phone- +39 040 203 8691
Hours- Monday-Saturday 9 AM-8 PM, closed Sunday
Live music at Knulp
We stumbled across Knulp because it was just across the street from the restaurant Bier Stube. What a lucky find, however! This is a bar/bookshop/performance space. The night we stumbled in for a glass of wine, there was excellent live music. From their website (linked above), I have garnered that they also host art exhibitions and have film screenings. Wine, beer and cocktail offerings are pretty basic, accompanied with potato chips and nuts, but the space was comfortable and alive with culture! Check out what is on when you are in town.
Al Ciketo
Address- Via S. Sebastiano, 6
Phone- +39 040 246 0257
Hours- Monday-Saturday, 10AM-12AM, closed Sunday
Al Ciketo
Al Ciketo is a Venetian style bar in Trieste. Check out the explanation of ‘cicchetti’ in the Food and Wine post for Veneto. We were able to grab an inside table, but groups of local friends poured out into the alleyway. You can have a nice glass of wine here and choose individual snacks, the cicchetti; each one costs only 1 euro and consists of a piece of bread topped with savory goodies such as different salumi (cured meats), cheeses or codfish spread. This bar is located near the Piazza di Cavana which has other trendy bars amongst the picturesque streets of the city center.