Regional Features
Positano by boat, the best way to see it, in my opinion
Vietri sul Mare and Salerno
Some of the Ceramic shops of Vietri Sul Mare
I combine the cities of Vietri Sul Mare and Salerno as they are neighbors on the southern most part of the Costiera Amalfitana. In fact, they are the last towns to be considered a part of this UNESCO recognized coastline. I don’t always recommend the ‘least touristic’ places in an area, just for the sake of it. Often places are popularized for a reason, but I had wonderful experiences staying in these slightly more ‘off the beaten track’ towns, paying less for accommodation, having authentic and reasonably priced restaurants in abundance and the other towns with name recognition (Positano, Sorrento and Amalfi) to visit by boat or car. I highly recommend hiring a boat for the day to take you up and down the coast. I have a contact to recommend, so if you would like his details; get in touch. He is, actually, now the mayor of Vietri! Otherwise you can find a plethora of options through some internet research. Here is a starting place. Do cross check reviews from different sites and prices.
A ceramics shop in Vietri Sul Mare
The majolica covered dome of St John the Baptist church in Vietri Sul Mare
Walk the streets and observe the ubiquitous beauty of ceramics in Vietri sul Mare. I promise this town offers more charm and fewer crowds than the other towns up the coast, and it has the added bonus of being the ‘ceramics capital’ of the Campania region. Anecdotal evidence suggests that the history of ceramic production dates to the Roman times, as cited in this article published by CNN Travel; however, I found documented evidence of the craft culture taking off around the 16th century. You can visit the Ceramics Museum to learn more. The late Renaissance church of Saint John the Baptist from 1732 is probably the most prominent landmark; with bright colors in the ceramics on the facade and the dome, it is an appropriate symbol of the city.
A view from La Spagnola, out into the harbor of Salerno at night
Eat at La Spagnola restaurant by port in Salerno. The seafood is delicious and set in the perfect context to enjoy it, overlooking the port. We set off on our private boat adventure from here the following day. Salerno is an interesting city to explore, with more restaurants to recommend such as Botteghelle 65, with high quality regional products at reasonable prices. I loved waking up in the morning and going for a run all along the Lungomare (seafront). The water was still, and the views towards the famous coast beckon. Salerno is also quite popular, strangely enough, in the wintertime. In fact, the first time I visited was in early January as the famous Christmas lights, called the Luci d’Artista, were still on display.
In front of the ‘due fratelli’ setting off on a journey along the coast
Fiordo di Furore (the Fjord of Furore), located under the archway
Set sail from the port of Salerno and travel up the coast. I would recommend departing on a boat trip from this southern point as you will first glide by Vietri and observe the Due Fratelli (two brothers), that is, two famous rocks that, in addition to the ceramics, are also emblematic of the city. There are popular legends about their origins; read more here. On your journey up the coast, you will pass the towns of Cetara, Maiori, Ravello, Amalfi, Furore, Praiano and finally Positano. If you hire a private boat (and it if you find the right one, it is not as expensive as you think!), you can drift under natural rock formations and into grotte (grottos) and be sure to snap some pictures of the Fiordo di Furore (the Fjord) under an archway built into the rocks on either side.
Ristorante Santa Croce, along the Costiera Amalfitana
Depending on your preferences, you can pause for a swim, get off at a larger city such as Positano or eat at an incredible restaurant, Ristorante Santa Croce, which is only accessible only by boat. Be sure to order some jugs of the lightly sparkling peach wine; it might not sound heavenly upon description, but just you wait.
Ischia
Views on Ischia, near Forio
Ischia is often compared to Capri’s bigger sister; her beauty is sometimes underestimated until you get a closer look. In terms of islands off the coast of the Campania region, there is also Procida, near to Ischia, which I have yet to visit, but have heard accolades. I have witnessed Ischia come to Anglo traveller consciousness over the last 15 years (since I studied abroad), and for good reason. Ischia features heavily in the HBO show adapted from Elena Ferrante’s novels, My Brilliant Friend; thus, I expect even more attention to be lavished upon her in the coming years. She deserves it. I would recommend spending at least some time on the far side of the island, near Forio, to take advantage of my recommendations.
Visit the Parco Termale Giardini Poseiden near Forio. This is a large complex of thermal baths with indoor and outdoor pools built into a gorgeous natural setting; you can also spend time on the private beach which is a part of the compound. They offer treatments, massages and there are restaurants and snack bars in the complex.
The port of Forio (you might recognize it from season two of the HBO series, My Brilliant Friend
Explore the cute town center of Forio. Just wandering around the small town center is a sensory experience with pastel colored buildings that have tasteful vines crawling up the sides and the slow island pace of life. We visited in May, and although it was warm enough to swim, there were few other visitors in sight. We ate at a few good restaurants along the waterfront, but I would most recommend eating at Ristorante La Capanna; it is a casual restaurant with lovely sea views. If you are looking for something slightly more upscale, check out Umberto a Mare.
Inland views from our Forio Airbnb
Stay at an incredible Airbnb which is housed in an old villa. We travelled to Ischia in a group of five, and this accommodation was perfect for a group of friends. It is spacious with gorgeous indoor and outdoor areas. We soaked in an electric sunset on the upper terrace area which has views of the green mountains and palms behind and the sea in front. This Airbnb is located just north of the port in Forio, about a 15 minute walk. We walked everywhere in the Forio area, and it was very pleasant to meander through the quiet streets and stroll down by the water.
Sentiero Degli Dei
Sentiero Degli Dei (the Path of the Gods)
The start of the hike (trailhead) from Bomerano; I am ecstatic because these are quotes about the path from two beloved authors, the Italian Italo Calvino and English D.H. Lawrence
The Sentiero Degli Dei (the Path of the Gods) is probably the most beautiful hike I have done. Mind you, we got caught in a rainstorm on our way back, and I still stand by this claim! It is not overly strenuous and the views are spectacular at every step of the way. The path connects Bomerano, a small hilltop town which is part of the larger ‘comune’ of Agerola with Nocelle. Nocelle is quite close to Positano, and it can be reached on the hike by taking the 1500 steps according to this website with pretty comprehensive information about the hike. Having spent time in Positano before, we did not go into down into the town, but opted to eat in a restaurant perched above and then hike back. You could choose to do the hike only in one direction, about 7.8 KM, or there and back, like we did.
Stay in the town of Bomerano. It is a small town, so the trailhead is not far, no matter where you decide to stay. We arrived the night before our hike, and ate a nice dinner at Ristorante La Selva Di Fusco Antonio on the first night, and it was good, local and authentic. The restaurant was 1 km away from our Airbnb, which was perfect for our needs and reasonably priced especially if your focus is on hiking the path. If this is your first trip to the Amalfi coast and you want to experience some of the famous towns, perhaps stay in Positano and hike in the other direction. After our long day of hiking, we had dinner at another very local restaurant in Bomerano called Ristorante Da Giannino. Simple and delicious, no frills; you will feel like you have walked into someone’s house. It was excellent.
An action shot of my friend Dann digging into a seafood pasta at Santa Croce
Eat at Santa Croce (different from the previous Santa Croce which is on the waterfront) just beyond the trailhead on the Nocelle side (above Positano). As the restaurant is one of the few choices directly off the trail, I was wary that the quality would not be excellent. I was wrong. The restaurant has incredible views further down the coast. Fresh pasta (and gluten free pasta options too!) are served on colorful ceramic plates. Quality is not compromised here. I would recommend booking a table (+39 089 811260), especially if you plan on visiting during high tourist from June-August. We got lucky and were able to snag a table without booking, but we visited at the beginning of October.
Gino on the hike
Take gorgeous pictures, both there and back. As briefly mentioned above, this hike is one of the best I have done. What surprised me most is that the wide open views are available to you for about 90% of the hike. If you start in Bomerano, there is a point that you can choose to take the upper or lower trail. We chose the upper on the way to Nocelle and the lower on the way back to Bomerano. We hiked with my friends’ canine companion, Gino, and he fared quite well. Indeed, the hike is considered quite ‘easy’ by hiking standards, but as mentioned on the Positano.com website and entry about this path: “The path is not suitable for those who suffer from vertigo.” If you do not suffer from vertigo, however, take that as an endorsement for the epic panoramas awaiting you.
Views from the Sentiero Degli Dei