Introduction to the city of Matera
I must admit, choosing Matera as the city to showcase in this region was not difficult. I had wanted to visit the city of sassi for years before finally making it there in December 2017. I was already aware that Matera had been named the European city of culture for the year 2019, and to be honest, I wanted to visit before the inauguration of the special year. That said, I do not think this honor has degraded the city in any way. Of course, I was worried about increased tourism, but then I think about my home base, the city of Rome, with over 9 million visitors per year, in recent years. Increased tourism is rarely a negative development; one must only know how to navigate a city despite crowds in order to have a gratifying experience. In staying true to the ‘boot’ description, Basilicata could be considered the ‘instep’ found in between the ‘toe’ of Calabria and ‘heel’ of Puglia. The wonderful thing about the location of Matera is that you can easily combine a visit with a trip to Puglia or Calabria. The two regions are extremely close in proximity as the region of Basilicata rests between the two.
The city of sassi by night
Matera is now European Capital of Culture for 2019 and a UNESCO world heritage site. But, why? The sassi, or ancient cave dwellings, have been inhabited by humans since the Paleolithic period, that is, around 7000 BCE. The UNESCO website states that the sassi of Matera represent “the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region, perfectly adapted to its terrain and ecosystem.” A troglodyte refers to a human who inhabits caves, and the troglodytes who made their homes in these Sassi around the year 7000 BCE are believed to be the first human settlements in Italy. Indeed, when you observe these cave homes built into the rock, the harmony of civilization (albeit ancient) and the natural world are striking. All you will want to do is walk around in awe and take pictures from different angles. Good news, this is one of the principal activities in Matera, and there are a myriad of strategic spots for photos. Even better news, along with the revitalization of the city after the 1980s, the food scene also burgeoned. Superb restaurants are found both built into sassi and with striking views of the sassi. I will recommend some of my favorites in the subsequent post.
City plan
On the topic of the sassi, they are divided into two districts in the city, the sassi caveoso to the south and the sassi barisano to the north. The sassi caveoso are truly ‘cave-like’ in appearance, as the name suggests. The sassi barisano look more like traditional houses and use more modern building techniques in part.
Another fascinating detail in the more recent history of the city is the fact that the city was fully evacuated for concerns over sanitation in the 1950s. The concern for sanitation in these cavernous homes developed over centuries. As noted in this New Yorker article, John Murray’s “Handbook for Travellers in Southern Italy” declared Matera “a dirty city” in 1853. The city was a self-fulfilling prophecy in that finally the Italian government decided to do something about the living conditions and the sassi of Matera. The city, then endowed with the epithet ‘the shame of Italy,’ was evacuated due to public health concerns. The Capital of Culture we know today started its renaissance only in the 1980s with loyalists moving back home, followed by other brave souls and entrepreneurs. The UNESCO designation was given in 1993. Visiting Matera today is humbling, as we are reminded so vividly of the different 100 years can make, in an area with a human history that dates back over 9,000 years.
Regarding accommodations, we stayed in a very functional AirB&B; it was clean, but the host was strangely difficult; thus, I would not recommend for this reason. There are so many good options within the city. We booked late and on a holiday weekend in Italy. Explore Airbnb for better options, even stay in a sassi. Here is a good list of boutique hotels.